Wednesday 23rd Feb 49.5 km 9 hours
Dropped back up the River Road 3 kms south of Koriniti, then a lovely morning walking past the settlements of Atene and Parikino, then up the final hill for a welcome lunchstop looking back up the Whanganui River. Then on down towards Wanganui, but taking the north eastern bypass and heading off towards the small township of Fordell. Heading east now for a couple of days to correct the westward drift of Te Araroa at this point. But really happy with the Whanganui River flavour of the last 9 days - first upstream fronm Taumarunui through the Tongariro Forest, and then downstream from Whakahoro onwards
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Whanganui River Road part 1
Tuesday 22nd Feb 6 hrs 35.5 kms
A leisurely start to the day with breakfast at the Bridge To Nowhere Lodge, and then a jetboat ride down to Pipiriki. If I do kayak the river at some point, that will be as a part of a group trip, rather than as a solo Te Araroa journey. So walking started around 10.30, down the road from Pipiriki towards Wanganui. Past historic settlements of Jerusalem, Ramana, Mahariki and Koriniti, with news on the way of the devastating earthquake in Christchucrh, to put things in perspective. The River Road is a lovely walk on any day, but welcome to meet up with Hazel at the end of the afternoon for a ride back into Wanganui for the night
A leisurely start to the day with breakfast at the Bridge To Nowhere Lodge, and then a jetboat ride down to Pipiriki. If I do kayak the river at some point, that will be as a part of a group trip, rather than as a solo Te Araroa journey. So walking started around 10.30, down the road from Pipiriki towards Wanganui. Past historic settlements of Jerusalem, Ramana, Mahariki and Koriniti, with news on the way of the devastating earthquake in Christchucrh, to put things in perspective. The River Road is a lovely walk on any day, but welcome to meet up with Hazel at the end of the afternoon for a ride back into Wanganui for the night
Bridge To Nowhere
Monday 21st Feb 3hrs 12kms
An early start saw me arrive at the Bridge To Nowhere before 9.30 - all to myself, and then another 30 mins on to the Mangapurua Landing on the Whanganui River. So time to relax and watch the river go by waiting for Hazel to arrive on the morning's jetboat tour. A second walk to the bridge for a lunchtstop, then on the jetboat down to the Bridge To Nowhere Lodge at Ramanui for a relaxing afternoon and evening in comfort. Well entertained and catered for by hosts Joe and Mandy, with superb views up and down the river.
An early start saw me arrive at the Bridge To Nowhere before 9.30 - all to myself, and then another 30 mins on to the Mangapurua Landing on the Whanganui River. So time to relax and watch the river go by waiting for Hazel to arrive on the morning's jetboat tour. A second walk to the bridge for a lunchtstop, then on the jetboat down to the Bridge To Nowhere Lodge at Ramanui for a relaxing afternoon and evening in comfort. Well entertained and catered for by hosts Joe and Mandy, with superb views up and down the river.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Whakahoro to Mangapurua Valley
Sunday Feb 20th 26.2 Kms 7 hrs 45 mins
The old roadway from Whakahoro follows the Whanganui River a short distance then turns up the Kawhakauka Valley. This valey, and the next one, Managapurua, was alocated to returning soldiers from WWI as virgin bush, so farms had to be cleared and made into farmable units. All were eventually abandoned because of remoteness, diffculty of country, and access issues, but there is a major history of what is called "abandoned dreams" in the area. Along the way signposts provide the names of the people who tried to make a go of this difficult country. Now the old roads / walking tracks are also being converted into a national cycleway, so there is major work being done in the area. Lunch at the Managapurua trig, then the evening campsite was at the site of the Betjemans homestead, now only a brick chimney
The old roadway from Whakahoro follows the Whanganui River a short distance then turns up the Kawhakauka Valley. This valey, and the next one, Managapurua, was alocated to returning soldiers from WWI as virgin bush, so farms had to be cleared and made into farmable units. All were eventually abandoned because of remoteness, diffculty of country, and access issues, but there is a major history of what is called "abandoned dreams" in the area. Along the way signposts provide the names of the people who tried to make a go of this difficult country. Now the old roads / walking tracks are also being converted into a national cycleway, so there is major work being done in the area. Lunch at the Managapurua trig, then the evening campsite was at the site of the Betjemans homestead, now only a brick chimney
National Park to Whakahoro
Saturday 19th Feb 55.4 km 9hrs 40 mins
An early start saw me heading off down Fisher Rd / Track which is receiving a major makeover as part of a national cycleway project. As a result a threatened hard tramp has become a pleasant downhill trail into the remote Upper Retanuke valley. Road walking and walking then as expected for a long way to Whakahoro on the Whanganui River - a common stopping point for the kayak trip down the river. Old schoolhouse converted to DOC accommodation shared with 4 kayakers. Some amazing papa bluffs along the way.
An early start saw me heading off down Fisher Rd / Track which is receiving a major makeover as part of a national cycleway project. As a result a threatened hard tramp has become a pleasant downhill trail into the remote Upper Retanuke valley. Road walking and walking then as expected for a long way to Whakahoro on the Whanganui River - a common stopping point for the kayak trip down the river. Old schoolhouse converted to DOC accommodation shared with 4 kayakers. Some amazing papa bluffs along the way.
Mangatepopo to National Park
Feb 18th 31km 7.25 hrs
For a short distamce I was walking with today's batch of Tongariro Alpine Crossing people, but soon turned off on the track to Whakapapa Village. Undulating up and down through the pleasant alpine scrub with views of mountains near and far. Stopped for a long elevenses in and around the Chateau (not included in today's time), then off again on the Whakapapaiti Track through the welcome bush. Across a number of streams, and then turned off down to the Mangahuia campsite, followed by a road walk through to National Park, and the railway crossing where tomorrow's walk starts.
For a short distamce I was walking with today's batch of Tongariro Alpine Crossing people, but soon turned off on the track to Whakapapa Village. Undulating up and down through the pleasant alpine scrub with views of mountains near and far. Stopped for a long elevenses in and around the Chateau (not included in today's time), then off again on the Whakapapaiti Track through the welcome bush. Across a number of streams, and then turned off down to the Mangahuia campsite, followed by a road walk through to National Park, and the railway crossing where tomorrow's walk starts.
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Thursday Feb 17th 18.5 km 6.5 hrs
A clear morning, so no better day than today for a walk through this very distinctive volcanic area. From the Ketetahi Rd carpark at 760m it was a steady climb upwards, first through bush, then on open ridges, past the Ketetahi Hut and onto the Blue Lake at around 1760m. On past the startling green Emerald lakes then up to the top (1860m) of the dramatic Red Crater, with the whiff of sulphur at times.
Close up views of Mt Ngaruhoe to discourage any thoughts of a quick sprint up to the top, before heading down across the South Crater, then down on a good track winding through a major area of blackened volcanic rocks. A comforting sign showing all the areas the track goes through that have been impacted by volcanic activity over the last 100 years. So then down along the Mangatepopo Valley beside the little stream that is so different from the rushing forest end of that stream that I crossed the day before in the Tongariro Forest, what seems like a whole world away. Then on to the Managatepopo carpark.
By going North to South, Te Araroa is going against the standard way to do the Crossing – while a few hundred were doing South to North, I appeared to be the only person going the other way – so while it was busy from Blue Lake through to the start of the South Crater as I passed the main group of the day , for the rest of the day I met very few people. No reason to not do it North to South if you have the transport organised
A clear morning, so no better day than today for a walk through this very distinctive volcanic area. From the Ketetahi Rd carpark at 760m it was a steady climb upwards, first through bush, then on open ridges, past the Ketetahi Hut and onto the Blue Lake at around 1760m. On past the startling green Emerald lakes then up to the top (1860m) of the dramatic Red Crater, with the whiff of sulphur at times.
Close up views of Mt Ngaruhoe to discourage any thoughts of a quick sprint up to the top, before heading down across the South Crater, then down on a good track winding through a major area of blackened volcanic rocks. A comforting sign showing all the areas the track goes through that have been impacted by volcanic activity over the last 100 years. So then down along the Mangatepopo Valley beside the little stream that is so different from the rushing forest end of that stream that I crossed the day before in the Tongariro Forest, what seems like a whole world away. Then on to the Managatepopo carpark.
By going North to South, Te Araroa is going against the standard way to do the Crossing – while a few hundred were doing South to North, I appeared to be the only person going the other way – so while it was busy from Blue Lake through to the start of the South Crater as I passed the main group of the day , for the rest of the day I met very few people. No reason to not do it North to South if you have the transport organised
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