Monday Feb 28th 21.5 kms 6 hours
Another drive up the winding Mangahao Rd from Shannon to the other side of the hill near the Tokomaru No 3 Reservoir. Signs advising of logging trucks fortunately did not result in any appearing.
So, off around to the other side of the reservoir, and then onto the track itself - a well formed track with easy gradients, that wound its way up through what was initially very dark bush (a cloudy morning). Such a good track in fact that in less than 2 hours from the track sign I reached the Horowhenua Lookout - on paper supposed to be a 3-4 hr walk.
Anyway, views out across the district with Shannon, Foxton, Foxton Beach, and the Manawatu River able to be identified via binoculars. Soon after there was a different view along the length of the Makahika Valley, which is where the track was to take me - down, down and more down, before arriving alongside the little Makahika Stream, which the track them crossed and recrossed many times, following the path of an old bush tramway for a long way. Following that, through open scrub and farmland, out onto the end of Gladstone Rd.
A few kms walk down the road, then up to the end of Poads Rd, from where the Tararua Tops section of Te Araroa starts. This is a short drive from Levin.
Monday, February 28, 2011
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Burtons Track
Sunday 21st Feb 16.6 kms 5.5 hours
This track is closed (actually road access is difficult, not so much the track) during the week, so being Sunday (with the shingle trucks not working either) we thought we were safe - until we reached the the start of the climb up Scotts Rd to find the road blocked off waiting for a logging truck to come down - and 3 empty ones pulled up behind us soon after. They were working an unscheduled day because of an urgent need for more logs down in Lyttelton, the centre of the recent Christchurch earthquake. But problem solved with cadging a ride up the road with one of the trucks, so Hazel did not have to dodge the trucks on what is only a one way road where logging trucks are concerned.
So to the start of the day's walk - on closer inspection of the map and GPS a bit short of the expected spot, but like all tracks through forestry areas, the reality and the maps / instructions can soon differ. Anyway, off up along forestry roads, soon in a different direction from the current logging operations up a minor old forestry road to a high point with a brief view out across the plains towards the sea. Then onto a real tramping track at last (the official start of Burtons Track) that went downwards towards the Tokomaru Stream. Time for wet feet from stream crossings for the first time since being in the Tongariro Forest a couple of weeks ago. Then I followed the tramping track and old vehicle tracks upstream, past the old Burtons whare site, until arriving at the pickup point for the day. Satellite phone calls to confirm the pickup time, and then time to relax waiting for Hazel in our white van. So I was a bit dismayed when a white van arrived at the right time and sped by, but fortunately that was not Hazel, who turned up 10 minutes later !
This track is closed (actually road access is difficult, not so much the track) during the week, so being Sunday (with the shingle trucks not working either) we thought we were safe - until we reached the the start of the climb up Scotts Rd to find the road blocked off waiting for a logging truck to come down - and 3 empty ones pulled up behind us soon after. They were working an unscheduled day because of an urgent need for more logs down in Lyttelton, the centre of the recent Christchurch earthquake. But problem solved with cadging a ride up the road with one of the trucks, so Hazel did not have to dodge the trucks on what is only a one way road where logging trucks are concerned.
So to the start of the day's walk - on closer inspection of the map and GPS a bit short of the expected spot, but like all tracks through forestry areas, the reality and the maps / instructions can soon differ. Anyway, off up along forestry roads, soon in a different direction from the current logging operations up a minor old forestry road to a high point with a brief view out across the plains towards the sea. Then onto a real tramping track at last (the official start of Burtons Track) that went downwards towards the Tokomaru Stream. Time for wet feet from stream crossings for the first time since being in the Tongariro Forest a couple of weeks ago. Then I followed the tramping track and old vehicle tracks upstream, past the old Burtons whare site, until arriving at the pickup point for the day. Satellite phone calls to confirm the pickup time, and then time to relax waiting for Hazel in our white van. So I was a bit dismayed when a white van arrived at the right time and sped by, but fortunately that was not Hazel, who turned up 10 minutes later !
Palmerston North to Burtons Track
Saturday 26th Feb 25.4 kms 5.5 hours
Crossing the Manawatu River I soon joined the Turitea Walkway that passes close to the Massey Campus, and then heads away from the city. The instructions always looked confusing, but I had no need for concern as the path was well marked with Te Araroa signs.
After a while this joined a minor road as it took me towards the hills, from where I was on an old track now used only for cycling and walking. More minor roads took me into the pleasant little Kahuterawa valley, which I then followed upstream to the end of the road, and the start of the next walking / cycling track - Back Track, which used to be a minor road, but now just wanders up through the bush onto a road providing access for logging trucks. From there not too far to my pickup point for the day.
Now into serious logging country, but being a Saturday we expected nothing, but they were putting more shingle on the narrow and winding Scotts Rd, so Hazel had to cope with dodging the shingle trucks. Fortunately on the way down our timing was great, and we avoided them.
Crossing the Manawatu River I soon joined the Turitea Walkway that passes close to the Massey Campus, and then heads away from the city. The instructions always looked confusing, but I had no need for concern as the path was well marked with Te Araroa signs.
After a while this joined a minor road as it took me towards the hills, from where I was on an old track now used only for cycling and walking. More minor roads took me into the pleasant little Kahuterawa valley, which I then followed upstream to the end of the road, and the start of the next walking / cycling track - Back Track, which used to be a minor road, but now just wanders up through the bush onto a road providing access for logging trucks. From there not too far to my pickup point for the day.
Now into serious logging country, but being a Saturday we expected nothing, but they were putting more shingle on the narrow and winding Scotts Rd, so Hazel had to cope with dodging the shingle trucks. Fortunately on the way down our timing was great, and we avoided them.
Friday, February 25, 2011
Rangitikei to Manawatu
Friday 25th Feb 44.6 km 8 hrs 40 mins
Leaving Bulls I crossed the Rangitikei River, waited patiently to cross a very busy SH3 then headed further inland. First searching out the summer route, but giving up after 40 minutes once I realised it was going to take more time than I was prepared to spend.
So then across country via quiet country roads to Feilding for an early lunch, and a walk past lots of sheep trucks - it must be sale day. From there on down alongside the Main Trunk Line to Bunnythorpe, and then to the eastern outskirts of Palmerston North.
Heading south, with another tricky crossing of a busy SH3, the trail took me to the banks of the Manawatu River. From there a pleasant walk beside the river to the day's pickup point - Fitzherbert Bridge
Leaving Bulls I crossed the Rangitikei River, waited patiently to cross a very busy SH3 then headed further inland. First searching out the summer route, but giving up after 40 minutes once I realised it was going to take more time than I was prepared to spend.
So then across country via quiet country roads to Feilding for an early lunch, and a walk past lots of sheep trucks - it must be sale day. From there on down alongside the Main Trunk Line to Bunnythorpe, and then to the eastern outskirts of Palmerston North.
Heading south, with another tricky crossing of a busy SH3, the trail took me to the banks of the Manawatu River. From there a pleasant walk beside the river to the day's pickup point - Fitzherbert Bridge
Thursday, February 24, 2011
Fordell - Turakina - Santoft - Bulls
Thursday 24th Feb 50.4 kms 9 hours
From Fordell a road walk of 5 kms took me to SH3, and then a trial by traffic through Whangaehu to Turakina, where I turned off on a quiet road for Turakina / Kotiata Beach.
My first west coast beach on Te Araroa since 90 Mile beach in Nov 2009 - 8.5 kms before heading through the sandhills and into the Santoft forest, for a shady walk through the tall pine trees.
This led straight onto another quiet country road, which eventually arrived at the Bulls township
From Fordell a road walk of 5 kms took me to SH3, and then a trial by traffic through Whangaehu to Turakina, where I turned off on a quiet road for Turakina / Kotiata Beach.
My first west coast beach on Te Araroa since 90 Mile beach in Nov 2009 - 8.5 kms before heading through the sandhills and into the Santoft forest, for a shady walk through the tall pine trees.
This led straight onto another quiet country road, which eventually arrived at the Bulls township
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Wanganui River to Fordell
Wednesday 23rd Feb 49.5 km 9 hours
Dropped back up the River Road 3 kms south of Koriniti, then a lovely morning walking past the settlements of Atene and Parikino, then up the final hill for a welcome lunchstop looking back up the Whanganui River. Then on down towards Wanganui, but taking the north eastern bypass and heading off towards the small township of Fordell. Heading east now for a couple of days to correct the westward drift of Te Araroa at this point. But really happy with the Whanganui River flavour of the last 9 days - first upstream fronm Taumarunui through the Tongariro Forest, and then downstream from Whakahoro onwards
Dropped back up the River Road 3 kms south of Koriniti, then a lovely morning walking past the settlements of Atene and Parikino, then up the final hill for a welcome lunchstop looking back up the Whanganui River. Then on down towards Wanganui, but taking the north eastern bypass and heading off towards the small township of Fordell. Heading east now for a couple of days to correct the westward drift of Te Araroa at this point. But really happy with the Whanganui River flavour of the last 9 days - first upstream fronm Taumarunui through the Tongariro Forest, and then downstream from Whakahoro onwards
Whanganui River Road part 1
Tuesday 22nd Feb 6 hrs 35.5 kms
A leisurely start to the day with breakfast at the Bridge To Nowhere Lodge, and then a jetboat ride down to Pipiriki. If I do kayak the river at some point, that will be as a part of a group trip, rather than as a solo Te Araroa journey. So walking started around 10.30, down the road from Pipiriki towards Wanganui. Past historic settlements of Jerusalem, Ramana, Mahariki and Koriniti, with news on the way of the devastating earthquake in Christchucrh, to put things in perspective. The River Road is a lovely walk on any day, but welcome to meet up with Hazel at the end of the afternoon for a ride back into Wanganui for the night
A leisurely start to the day with breakfast at the Bridge To Nowhere Lodge, and then a jetboat ride down to Pipiriki. If I do kayak the river at some point, that will be as a part of a group trip, rather than as a solo Te Araroa journey. So walking started around 10.30, down the road from Pipiriki towards Wanganui. Past historic settlements of Jerusalem, Ramana, Mahariki and Koriniti, with news on the way of the devastating earthquake in Christchucrh, to put things in perspective. The River Road is a lovely walk on any day, but welcome to meet up with Hazel at the end of the afternoon for a ride back into Wanganui for the night
Bridge To Nowhere
Monday 21st Feb 3hrs 12kms
An early start saw me arrive at the Bridge To Nowhere before 9.30 - all to myself, and then another 30 mins on to the Mangapurua Landing on the Whanganui River. So time to relax and watch the river go by waiting for Hazel to arrive on the morning's jetboat tour. A second walk to the bridge for a lunchtstop, then on the jetboat down to the Bridge To Nowhere Lodge at Ramanui for a relaxing afternoon and evening in comfort. Well entertained and catered for by hosts Joe and Mandy, with superb views up and down the river.
An early start saw me arrive at the Bridge To Nowhere before 9.30 - all to myself, and then another 30 mins on to the Mangapurua Landing on the Whanganui River. So time to relax and watch the river go by waiting for Hazel to arrive on the morning's jetboat tour. A second walk to the bridge for a lunchtstop, then on the jetboat down to the Bridge To Nowhere Lodge at Ramanui for a relaxing afternoon and evening in comfort. Well entertained and catered for by hosts Joe and Mandy, with superb views up and down the river.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Whakahoro to Mangapurua Valley
Sunday Feb 20th 26.2 Kms 7 hrs 45 mins
The old roadway from Whakahoro follows the Whanganui River a short distance then turns up the Kawhakauka Valley. This valey, and the next one, Managapurua, was alocated to returning soldiers from WWI as virgin bush, so farms had to be cleared and made into farmable units. All were eventually abandoned because of remoteness, diffculty of country, and access issues, but there is a major history of what is called "abandoned dreams" in the area. Along the way signposts provide the names of the people who tried to make a go of this difficult country. Now the old roads / walking tracks are also being converted into a national cycleway, so there is major work being done in the area. Lunch at the Managapurua trig, then the evening campsite was at the site of the Betjemans homestead, now only a brick chimney
The old roadway from Whakahoro follows the Whanganui River a short distance then turns up the Kawhakauka Valley. This valey, and the next one, Managapurua, was alocated to returning soldiers from WWI as virgin bush, so farms had to be cleared and made into farmable units. All were eventually abandoned because of remoteness, diffculty of country, and access issues, but there is a major history of what is called "abandoned dreams" in the area. Along the way signposts provide the names of the people who tried to make a go of this difficult country. Now the old roads / walking tracks are also being converted into a national cycleway, so there is major work being done in the area. Lunch at the Managapurua trig, then the evening campsite was at the site of the Betjemans homestead, now only a brick chimney
National Park to Whakahoro
Saturday 19th Feb 55.4 km 9hrs 40 mins
An early start saw me heading off down Fisher Rd / Track which is receiving a major makeover as part of a national cycleway project. As a result a threatened hard tramp has become a pleasant downhill trail into the remote Upper Retanuke valley. Road walking and walking then as expected for a long way to Whakahoro on the Whanganui River - a common stopping point for the kayak trip down the river. Old schoolhouse converted to DOC accommodation shared with 4 kayakers. Some amazing papa bluffs along the way.
An early start saw me heading off down Fisher Rd / Track which is receiving a major makeover as part of a national cycleway project. As a result a threatened hard tramp has become a pleasant downhill trail into the remote Upper Retanuke valley. Road walking and walking then as expected for a long way to Whakahoro on the Whanganui River - a common stopping point for the kayak trip down the river. Old schoolhouse converted to DOC accommodation shared with 4 kayakers. Some amazing papa bluffs along the way.
Mangatepopo to National Park
Feb 18th 31km 7.25 hrs
For a short distamce I was walking with today's batch of Tongariro Alpine Crossing people, but soon turned off on the track to Whakapapa Village. Undulating up and down through the pleasant alpine scrub with views of mountains near and far. Stopped for a long elevenses in and around the Chateau (not included in today's time), then off again on the Whakapapaiti Track through the welcome bush. Across a number of streams, and then turned off down to the Mangahuia campsite, followed by a road walk through to National Park, and the railway crossing where tomorrow's walk starts.
For a short distamce I was walking with today's batch of Tongariro Alpine Crossing people, but soon turned off on the track to Whakapapa Village. Undulating up and down through the pleasant alpine scrub with views of mountains near and far. Stopped for a long elevenses in and around the Chateau (not included in today's time), then off again on the Whakapapaiti Track through the welcome bush. Across a number of streams, and then turned off down to the Mangahuia campsite, followed by a road walk through to National Park, and the railway crossing where tomorrow's walk starts.
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Thursday Feb 17th 18.5 km 6.5 hrs
A clear morning, so no better day than today for a walk through this very distinctive volcanic area. From the Ketetahi Rd carpark at 760m it was a steady climb upwards, first through bush, then on open ridges, past the Ketetahi Hut and onto the Blue Lake at around 1760m. On past the startling green Emerald lakes then up to the top (1860m) of the dramatic Red Crater, with the whiff of sulphur at times.
Close up views of Mt Ngaruhoe to discourage any thoughts of a quick sprint up to the top, before heading down across the South Crater, then down on a good track winding through a major area of blackened volcanic rocks. A comforting sign showing all the areas the track goes through that have been impacted by volcanic activity over the last 100 years. So then down along the Mangatepopo Valley beside the little stream that is so different from the rushing forest end of that stream that I crossed the day before in the Tongariro Forest, what seems like a whole world away. Then on to the Managatepopo carpark.
By going North to South, Te Araroa is going against the standard way to do the Crossing – while a few hundred were doing South to North, I appeared to be the only person going the other way – so while it was busy from Blue Lake through to the start of the South Crater as I passed the main group of the day , for the rest of the day I met very few people. No reason to not do it North to South if you have the transport organised
A clear morning, so no better day than today for a walk through this very distinctive volcanic area. From the Ketetahi Rd carpark at 760m it was a steady climb upwards, first through bush, then on open ridges, past the Ketetahi Hut and onto the Blue Lake at around 1760m. On past the startling green Emerald lakes then up to the top (1860m) of the dramatic Red Crater, with the whiff of sulphur at times.
Close up views of Mt Ngaruhoe to discourage any thoughts of a quick sprint up to the top, before heading down across the South Crater, then down on a good track winding through a major area of blackened volcanic rocks. A comforting sign showing all the areas the track goes through that have been impacted by volcanic activity over the last 100 years. So then down along the Mangatepopo Valley beside the little stream that is so different from the rushing forest end of that stream that I crossed the day before in the Tongariro Forest, what seems like a whole world away. Then on to the Managatepopo carpark.
By going North to South, Te Araroa is going against the standard way to do the Crossing – while a few hundred were doing South to North, I appeared to be the only person going the other way – so while it was busy from Blue Lake through to the start of the South Crater as I passed the main group of the day , for the rest of the day I met very few people. No reason to not do it North to South if you have the transport organised
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Tongariro Forest to Ketetahi Rd
Wednesday 16th Feb 24.3 km 7hrs
Off along the unmarked but clear enough Waione - Cokers track. But I followed it closely via GPS and my detailed maps, because the maps showed a lot of other tracks too - mostly quite obscure anyway. DOC uses the track for pest control / kiwi conservation and amazingly appear to take 4 wheeler bikes along it - parts of it are really rugged for anything other than walking.
Across the rushing Mangatepopo Stream just before it reaches the Whanganui River, then on through the forest. The last section was supposed to be in better condition, but that was where the real mud pools turned up. Then onto sealed roads, via SH47 and SH46 to the busy metropolis of the Ketetahi Rd carpark - for most people this is where their Tongariror Crossing ends.
After 5 days without Hazel, my faithful support crew, we both arrived at the carpark at the same time
Off along the unmarked but clear enough Waione - Cokers track. But I followed it closely via GPS and my detailed maps, because the maps showed a lot of other tracks too - mostly quite obscure anyway. DOC uses the track for pest control / kiwi conservation and amazingly appear to take 4 wheeler bikes along it - parts of it are really rugged for anything other than walking.
Across the rushing Mangatepopo Stream just before it reaches the Whanganui River, then on through the forest. The last section was supposed to be in better condition, but that was where the real mud pools turned up. Then onto sealed roads, via SH47 and SH46 to the busy metropolis of the Ketetahi Rd carpark - for most people this is where their Tongariror Crossing ends.
After 5 days without Hazel, my faithful support crew, we both arrived at the carpark at the same time
Into the Tongariro Forest
Tuesday 15th Feb 39.4 km 9 hrs
From the Taumarunui Holiday Park down SH4 to Owhango, then onto the second half (in reverse) of the 42nd Traverse - a popular mountain biking route that goes from one side of the Tongariro Forest to the other.The route meanders around, up and down, and through some (cycling) steep stream crossings. Eventually reached my target for the day - Waione Stream, with a good campsite nearby.
From the Taumarunui Holiday Park down SH4 to Owhango, then onto the second half (in reverse) of the 42nd Traverse - a popular mountain biking route that goes from one side of the Tongariro Forest to the other.The route meanders around, up and down, and through some (cycling) steep stream crossings. Eventually reached my target for the day - Waione Stream, with a good campsite nearby.
Monday, February 14, 2011
Taumarunui
Monday Feb 14th 36km 5.75 hrs
Road walk from end of Mangakahu Valley, through two well populated horse paddocks, then via minor roads in lovely rolling hills into the top of Taumarunui. Stop for lunch, then on to the holiday park at Manunui. Feet a bit tired - Must go slower on roads when carrying a full pack
Road walk from end of Mangakahu Valley, through two well populated horse paddocks, then via minor roads in lovely rolling hills into the top of Taumarunui. Stop for lunch, then on to the holiday park at Manunui. Feet a bit tired - Must go slower on roads when carrying a full pack
Hauhungaroas
Sun 13th Feb 6.25 hrs 14 kms
Followed the Waihaha Stream a short way, disturbing a couple of pigs nearby in the forest in the process - neither of us really keen to meet each other. Then a good climb up onto the Hauhungaroa Range , reaching the Hauhungaroa Hut earlier than expected after 3 hrs. The hut booked notes 7 TA people this year plus a resident mouse. Stopped at the old Motere trig for lunch, then a slow descent (rough and muddy track) down into the Mangakahu Valley. Explored for a campsite - success, with ripe blackberries for good measure
Followed the Waihaha Stream a short way, disturbing a couple of pigs nearby in the forest in the process - neither of us really keen to meet each other. Then a good climb up onto the Hauhungaroa Range , reaching the Hauhungaroa Hut earlier than expected after 3 hrs. The hut booked notes 7 TA people this year plus a resident mouse. Stopped at the old Motere trig for lunch, then a slow descent (rough and muddy track) down into the Mangakahu Valley. Explored for a campsite - success, with ripe blackberries for good measure
Bog Inn Hut southwards
Saturday 12th Feb 8.5 hrs 21.1 kms
Started off with some brilliant GPS and compass navigation around The Bog where the map said the track was. Then found the real track and deliberately followed it back to the hut. Just a reminder how maps and reality can differ.
Then set off again on the real track for the Weraroa high point, then on southwards to Waihaha Hut (7.25 hrs) Still mid afternoon, so continued on upstream to super camping spot near the junction with the Te Awaiti Stream. Hunters went by carrying a pig they had shot
Started off with some brilliant GPS and compass navigation around The Bog where the map said the track was. Then found the real track and deliberately followed it back to the hut. Just a reminder how maps and reality can differ.
Then set off again on the real track for the Weraroa high point, then on southwards to Waihaha Hut (7.25 hrs) Still mid afternoon, so continued on upstream to super camping spot near the junction with the Te Awaiti Stream. Hunters went by carrying a pig they had shot
Mt Pureora to Bog Inn Hut
Friday 11th Feb 4.5 hrs 13km
From the Barryville / Link Rd corner headed up Link Rd, initially too far to Quarry Rd. Backtracked and then climbed up along Toitoi track to the summit, now in light drizzle with no view - keep that for another day. The descent was initially steep and recently washed out, but soon reverted to a comfortable undulating forest path. Arrived at the little hut just as it started to rain. This year 6 other Te Araroa walkers have been in the hut already.
From the Barryville / Link Rd corner headed up Link Rd, initially too far to Quarry Rd. Backtracked and then climbed up along Toitoi track to the summit, now in light drizzle with no view - keep that for another day. The descent was initially steep and recently washed out, but soon reverted to a comfortable undulating forest path. Arrived at the little hut just as it started to rain. This year 6 other Te Araroa walkers have been in the hut already.
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