To the Rangitata River

Friday March 23 18.3 kms 5 hours

Good fog cover the next morning, and an early start, but today is my last TA day this season, so I was soon on the trail. Track easy enough to follow, and I even managed to spot the point at which the markers took me away from the old farm track that I had followed to that point. By the time I reached the saddle down into the Lake Clearwater basin, the sun was out for me … but ahead and below was a sea of thick fog.

Navigation was easy enough at first, following the markers down a fenceline, and at the bottom I instantly spotted another unmarked junction with marker poles going in two different directions. But I had my TA marked map, so knew which route to take. Because this was going across country with no obvious track, this section required some care. At one point I stopped for 5-10 minutes at a marker pole, looking at my shadow on thick fog ahead of me before continuing.

But soon after the fog cleared, providing views of Lake Clearwater on my left, and the mountains around Mt Potts in the distance ahead of me. Grateful for the “deviation” to avoid private property, as this took the track onto a ridgeline with good views, and then onto the lip of the high banks of the Potts River.

Then down to the meeting point with Hazel at the road bridge, leaving my pack in the car, before a quick walk there and back to the first branch of the Rangitata River. Across the river were great views of Mesopotamia Station and the start of Bush Stream, where I tramped with the ATC last summer, and will return next summer on my TA journey – I can’t wait !

Double Hut to Paddle Hill Creek

Thursday March 22 26.7 kms 7.25 hrs

Light rain overnight, and awoke to low fog covering the hills. A later start than usual, Following an old farm track down a valley with mountains on either side, with the fog gradually clearing. Popped in to check out Manuka Hut – a pleasant sheltered spot beside a stream – and then after a while climbed a low saddle and descended the other side to Lake Emily – an open patch of water in a treeless landscape.

Then again on a farm track out to the Lake Heron Road, and met up with Hazel for a lunch stop at Maori Lake. Now a warm sunny day, but not as hot as the day before.

A short road walk, then off on the track towards Lake Clearwater. General direction clear, but poles again a long way apart – this time the binoculars routine was enhanced by having to remove my sunglasses each time. This eventually became tedious, meaning that I ended up on the wrong side of the stream with dense matagouri (spiky) bushes protecting the banks on either side…. Backtrack to where the marker poles crossed the stream !

An unsignposted junction with the obvious poles heading the wrong way, so an extra couple of kms as a result. But eventually found a place to camp with a good enough water supply. Ominous clouds arriving from both sides, but in the end the overnight showers were not much.

Clent Saddle to Double Hut

Wednesday March 21 14 kms 7.25 hrs

Today was expected to be a slow day, and I was not disappointed. But it was a great day – fine, sunny, warm, no clouds, with a real mountain saddle to cross. Not pressured for time because of yesterday’s efforts, so just a day to enjoy it as it happened. First off, the trail continued on up Round Hill Creek with more river crossings. I deliberately took the spur up the hill after Logans Stream to get up onto the tops sooner to see more of the mountains. Which meant more tussocky sidling, and I managed to fall in a hole on top of my trusty wooden river crossing pole – I was fine but it snapped in half. Fortunately no more river crossings of note this trip.

So soon enough I reached Clent Saddle (1500m) with views onwards down into the Lake Heron basin. A number of decent scree slopes to sidle across next. As expected, the marker poles were a long way apart, and not having good eyesight, this meant a stop at each one, using the binoculars to spot the next one (if I was lucky), and / or using guesswork, and generally relating the superb scenery to the map. Visibility perfect – what a relief !

So worked my way over scree slopes, into and out of side streams, down ridgelines, and then onto a telltale trail down an old fenceline down into the valley below. Now hot with no wind, so pleased then to reach the signposted turnoff to Double Hut, with a view of a shining Lake Heron in the distance.

Glenrock Station to Round Hill Creek

Tuesday March 20 18.7 kms 6 hours

A fine brisk morning drive up the south side of the Rakaia River, with time for a coffee with friends at Redcliffe Station. Some interesting history of the stations in the area, and some tips around good view spots, so we duly drove past the TA start point, around a few more corners, and could then see all the way up the Upper Rakaia valley towards the Arrowsmith and Ragged ranges – what a day !

So then off on the TA track following a stream through Glenrock Station, and following the old 4WD track all the way up to Turtons Saddle – some good views back behind me, and then to the sun burnt spectacular mountains ahead of me. Clouds soon vanished, but a cool southerly blowing towards me up the valley. The A frame hut provided a sunny lunch spot sheltered from the wind, and then it was on further to Comyns Hut.

Early afternoon, so a good opportunity to shorten tomorrow’s promised hard day by continuing on up the north branch of the Ashburton River. Many river crossings – and more promised for the next day too.

Soon enough found a suitable campsite at its junction with Round Hill Creek. No sandflies – YAY ! Out of the southerly wind, but still cool, and the sun soon disappeared behind the mountains, and a very cold night that night. Grateful for my decision to trade my summer sleeping bag for my winter one for this week !

Lake Coleridge to the Rakaia River

Monday March 19 7.5 kms 1.75 hrs

A cold wet start to the day, and only a short walk required,
so a morning off in and around Methven, before returning to the
trail early afternoon. A very pleasant walk on the Lake Hill
Track right on the edge of Lake Coleridge – a lone sheep under
the willows was quite startled when I turned up. Across some open farmland with views of the lake, before joining a minor road, that took me off to the top of Coleridge Arboretum with its large conifer collection.

Down the hill parallel to the intake pipes for the power station, and then at the bottom followed a vehicle track all the way down to the northern bank of the large Rakaia River. Still cloud and rain about, but some good views of the mountains on the other side. Back to Methven for the night.

Harper River to Lake Coleridge

Sunday March 18 36.3 kms 7.25 hrs

Continued on the 4WD track with a few more river crossings and
over open grassy areas, past the Pinnacles (eroded hillside) on
the other side of the river. Crossed the Harper River one more
time, then the wide delta of the Avoca River before soon coming
up onto a newly metalled farm track on the other side. This took
me all the way out to the pleasant little Harper Village near the
top end of Lake Coleridge – but the NW wind was now strong and
heavy rain was not far away in the mountains.

Late morning, so no reason to check out the camping spot, so off
along Harper Rd towards the other end of the Lake. After a while
Hazel turned up to relieve me of my full pack, and with the wind
behind me, it was just a matter of a few hours before reaching
my destination for the day – the junction with Homestead Rd at Lake Coleridge Station. Some lovely lakes along the way, and grand mountains around me, so plenty to see along the way.

So a motel night in Methven, rather than a windblown wet camp at the top end of Lake Coleridge. And it snowed a little on the tops that night too…..

Bealey to Harper River

Saturday March 17 22 kms 8 hours

Back on the trail after a few weeks’ break. A fine and sunny day
for a gradual ascent through the beech forest, and then out into
the open on the way to Lagoon Saddle. Great views of mountains
and valleys, but rain further west on the Main Divide. Past the
saddle the easy track soon enters the forest again. Stopped in
to fill out the hut book at the A Frame Hut, and found I was
No 17 walking TA this year.

Then on again following the river, with a sunny lunch spot beside
a side stream, until reaching the Hamilton Hut early afternoon.
Tempted to stay and do a side trip, but taking advantage of the
fine weather, I continued on. I was expecting this next section
to be a rough river walk, but on encountering a sign about no
further vehicle access from the direction I was heading, I
knew I was in for some faster travel on a 4WD track. I continued
on, eventually finding a camping spot in some trees beside a good
side stream, which was sheltered from the NW wind coming down
the valley.

Goat Pass to Bealey

January 24 20.8 kms 7.25 hrs

A cool but clear blue skies start to the day. Over Goat Pass and for all the way down to the river flats on a much improved track, with some significant sections of boardwalk to protect the wetland areas. A straightforward descent down into the Mingha valley with great views in all directions - to the tops and the valley ahead and behind.

Past the old Mingha Biv, and time for a final alpine stop at Dudleys Knob for morning tea. From there the track descends to the main river valley, and you then follow the river all the way down on increasingly wider river flats towards the Bealey River.

Rather than taking the foot track out to Greyneys Shelter, I followed a 4WD track alongside the Bealey River as far as the railway bridge, and then headed across the rocky river bed to Klondyke corner - the main river has now moved from where it is marked on the topo map.

After a lunch stop, a poled 4WD route continued on across the river flats towards the Waimakariri river and the Bealey hotel where Hazel was already in residence. She spotted me coming, so was able to come down to the river bank to watch one aborted river crossing, followed by a successful one. Not a river to play with, especially when there is a bridge not much more than a km away, but yet again I was fortunate that there had not been rain in the area for a few days, and my trusty old tent pole made all the difference between it being a safe rather than a dangerous crossing.

Hazel then dropped me off at my intended end point at the start of the Cass Lagoon track, and I walked back to the Bealey hotel from there.

A tremendous location with mountains and valleys all around, with the wide shingly river beds so typical of Canterbury rivers.

I now need to return home to Auckland, but intend to be back in the autumn to continue on some more - hopefully as far as the Rangitata River.

Deception River to Goat Pass

January 23 15 kms 8.5 hrs

A cold clear morning, with the sun taking a good couple of hours to reach me in the Deception River valley. Slow going on rough tracks, almost always close to the river, with a number of river crossings throughout the day - getting easier the further I travelled upstream.

A really lovely valley, with the rushing Deception River always providing a real picture to enjoy. A few marked sections in the bush, and rock cairns recommending river crossings, etc, so mostly easy to find the best route to follow.

The Deception - Goat Pass - Mingha route is the mountain running section of the Coast to Coast race that occurs around March each year, with the fastest runners taking an amazing 3 to 4 hours for the whole route. So I was duly passed by 4 runners in training during the day ... each to our own mode of travel !

Near the end the trail left the main river and headed up, mostly in, a side stream to the Goat Pass Hut, just a few minutes below the pass itself. The blue sky that was present for most of the day was replaced by high cloud and a cool breeze in the evening, but it was still a great time to get up onto the pass itself for a look around.

Otira

January 22 11.8 kms 2hrs 50 mins

A short day today, so a bit of a lie in, waiting for the last showers to finish.

Mostly easy walking following a 4WD track down towards the Otira River. A short diversion onto the marked start of the flood track, but even at the start that was muddy and uneven, so I reverted to my original plan of crossing the Otira River at the usual place near Aickens. The river appeared not influenced by the overnight showers, but still a significant river crossing to take care over.

From there a short walk along the marked edge of a paddock to SH73, and then a pleasant walk along the road to the Morrisons footbridge, the agreed meeting place with Hazel for the day.

We stayed the night in the large old Otira hotel ... very comfortably away from the rain ... and snow on the tops ... during the afternoon.

Harper Pass and Taramakau River

January 21 25.5 kms 9.5 hrs

Not especially fast going along the Upper Hurinui valley - again missing the frequent forest markers when the track went out onto the grassy river flats, etc. At one point after travelling for some time I was a bit stuck for the next section, so explored up a hillside, then sat down for break and a chance to check my GPS. Hmmm... that said (correctly) that I had just passed the (bright orange) Harper Pass biv a short distance up the hillside from the track !

From there a relatively short ascent to Harper Pass, and the view it provided along the Taramakau River valley - a long way below. As promised, the descent was steep and required a lot of care on the at time rocky or narrow path. But continued on reaching the special Locke Stream Hut for a later lunch break.

Soon after you end up on open river flats, with most of the time being able to follow a well enough used path, so easy to cover quite a bit of ground relatively quickly. A few crossings of the Taramakau River, but no issues because the last few days had seen minimal or no rain. Happy enough to do the side trip to the old Kiwi hut, where 3 hunters were in residence, having driven their 4WD vehicle up the valley to just below the hut.

From there a final crossing of the main river, and then a significant crossing of the Otehake River - made that bit more straightforward because it was in 2 channels. Target achieved for the day, so found a suitable camping place, with showers forecast for overnight.

Hope Kiwi to Hurunui No 3

January 20 29kms 8 hrs 20 mins

Off wandering up the valley on a 4WD track and easily navigated the bog at its end before starting the climb up through the forest towards the Kiwi Saddle area. From there sidling the hillside downwards, with occasional glimpses of Lake Sumner. Out into the open for a short while at the head of the lake, but soon enough back into a the forest wandering along for some distance - ostensibly to avoid boggy patches on the open valley floor.

Exited the forest at the sign for the Upper Hurinui swingbridge, but soon enough wandered off track towards the other side of the valley. The crossing of the river there was significant, but viable, and another chance to practise my solo river crossing skills. Almost immediately the track then climbed up a short distance to the spacious Hurinui Hut for a welcome lunch stop.

From there the track follows the river upstream, mostly in the forest, but occasionally exiting to river flats ... with minimal markers, but not hard to guess the direction of travel, while still watching out for the next forested section. A real highlight part way along is a natural hot pool, so a chance for a refreshing dip for all parts of me that could get below the water level - the hungry sandflies set to on the rest !

Then not much further to the old Hurinui No 3 hut for the night. On entering the foyer there were a set of old canvas bunks - but no cause for concern as through the next door were the main bunks with full mattresses !

Magdalen Hut to Hope Kiwi Lodge

January 19 37.5 kms 10.5 hrs, Plus 1 hour reprovisioning stop with Hazel at the Boyle shelter

An early start for what was expected to be a long day, and so a fast walk back onto the St James Walkway, then out to SH7 at the Boyle shelter (2.5 hours). I had requested a sandwich as extra supplies ... but Hazel had made 3 - isn't she wonderful !

With more food and an old 6 ft tent pole for river crossing purposes, I then set off along the Tui Track - first parallel to the main road, and then over river flats to my first significant river crossing - the Boyle River. All OK. Across some river flats to the next - the Doubtful River - more serious, but successful on the second attempt. Then on around following the Boyle River downstream on an old 4WD track. A slightly tedious marked deviation around the outside of a deer fence, and then up the hill and around and about for ages, mostly through manuka scrub.

This eventually joined the main Hope Kiwi track not that far from Windy Point, with this quickly entering the beech forest on terraces a good way above the Hope River. Faster travelling now, first in the forest to the Hope Shelter, and then soon after down onto a long grassy area that eventually ended in a swingbridge over the turquoise Hope gorge.

A sign said 2 km 45 mins to the lodge, which my temporary watch then told me took 10 mins - very temporary indeed ! Some fishermen in residence with fresh trout to cook for their dinner, and a number of other people staying as well, making this the most popular hut since I had been in the Nelson Lakes area.

St James Walkway - Day 2

Delta Stream - Anne River - Boyle River - Magdalen Hut

January 18 27km 8 hours

Awoke to a cold but clear morning with ice on my tent. Across the river flats to the new Anne River Hut, now no longer near the river after its recent rebuild, and then up the picturesque Anne valley towards the Anne Saddle. At this point I passed two family groups - one with an eager 5 year old - still eager after a few days on the walkway.

Over the Saddle and then down to and then along the Boyle valley. A few parts had obvious recent storm / flood damage, but no significant issues with that. Checked out the Boyle Flats Hut (Great location) which is accessed by its own swing bridge, and then continued on to the smaller Magdalen Hut, which is just 20 minutes off the main walkway. Sunny afternoon, so able to dry all gear - even my socks, although I well knew that in 2 minutes' walking the next morning they would be wet again !

St James Walkway Again Day 1

Lewis Pass - Ada Pass - Christopher Hut - Camping at Delta Stream

January 17 29.5 km 8.25 hrs approx

Picked up again at the start of the St James Walkway near the Lewis Pass summit so as to rejoin the Te Araroa trail where I have left off a couple of weeks before when Willi, Rob and I had headed north up the Waiau valley. Lovely sunny day, and quiet on the walkway, meeting only 2 other people during the day. As usual the sandflies made the evening more energetic than planned, but nevertheless it was a great open place to camp with enough dry Canterbury mountains all around.

Easy walking on a very pleasant St James Walkway, so able to cover quite a bit of ground, after a later start than usual because of the drive from my day off in Murchison.

A lovely clear night - the stars were absolutely brilliant

Captains Creek to Pelorus Bridge

January 15 21.5 km 6 hours

A pleasant walk on a sunny day out to the end of the track on Maungatapu Rd, and then a short walk along the road before Hazel and the van arrived with a Fresh Food Feast - what more can a tramper want after over a week on dehy food and muesli bars ! For Dennis (who is not doing TA ... yet) this was the well deserved end of his tramping for now. For me a more hurried eat up, dumping of pack in the van, and then off down the road to Pelorus Bridge. The absolute Joy of walking with no pack made the 13km a real breeze, so arrived at the Bridge soon enough to admire the view of the sparkling waters below - unlike the brown in flood river when I walked to
here last April from the Queen Charlotte Track.

Now I have completed TA from Cape Reinga to the St James Walkway, so time for a day off tomorrow to reprovision and get on the trail again.

Roebuck Hut to Captains Creek Hut

January 14 12.5km 5.75 hours

Our slightly extended trip means we were now into shorter days - for Dennis this was tramping day 29, and for me day 19, with our bodies complaining suitably about the last week of hard tramping.

Another fine day as we set off - for around half way to Middy Creek Hut the track was again narrow, sidling and slow, but eventually it improved as we joined first the junction to the Rocks Hut track, and then arrived at Middy Creek Hut for an early lunch in the sunshine.

I would not recommend that the Roebuck Hut route is the standard route - based on the comments from the ATC group we met, I would strongly recommend that other trampers do what they did, which is to go from Middy Creek Hut up to Rocks Hut, and then down again to Totara Saddle, not far from Browning Hut. Faster, more comfortable, and a chance for some good views on the tops around Rocks Hut (and even a side trip to Dun Mountain). The Roebuck to Totara Saddle section does not even have the benefit of river views.

Anyway, a short hop from Middy Creek to Captains Creek Hut, and then a lazy afternoon in the sunshine by the beautiful deep green Pelorus River. More TA people arrived to share the hut with us that evening - only the second night out of 7 that we had company.

Starveall Hut to Roebuck Hut

January 13 20.1 km 8.75 hrs

Awoke in cloud again, but no wind, so keen enough to start on the long 900m descent to Hacket Hut, knowing that we had to take it slow and steady because of the damp forest floor. Nearer the top especially the amount of large trees blown over in various storms was amazing - a good place not to be when the wind is up, and thanks to DOC for having cleared the track so well in spite of it all.

Concentrating so hard on our footing we missed Pyramid Rock (a landmark part way down), but eventually reached Hacket Creek and met one of the parties from the Auck Tramping Club's Interim trip on their way up. A good chance to swap notes, to get another wasp warning, and then depart in our opposite directions.

Hacket Hut (our original scheduled destination the night before) looked to have had a late night party, so grateful that we had not ended up there after all.... So on to Browning Hut for an early lunch.

Climb up to Totara Saddle was fine - only another 200m from the hut, but then, as the track notes suggested, the track became a hard slog for quite a few hours - narrow track sidling a steep hillside with plenty of chances for tripping and slipping. Eventually it sidled onto a ridge between the Mates and Roebuck Creek cachments, and then a final descent down to the Roebuck Hut on the Pelorus River bank.

Old Man Hut to Starveall Hut

January 12 15.2 km 7.25 hours

Weather no better the next day - not a lot of wind, but cloud everywhere, so left it for 2 hours before deciding to move on. So then a day in cloud all day passing over a number of high open points with no views, and at times only able to spot the next marker pole half way towards it.

Great country though, so we definitely aim to be back on a fine day to enjoy the views from all the high points - 3 over 1500m. Arrived at Starveall Hut and warmed things up for a short while with our only fire of this trip.

Forecast for the next day of gales of up to 130kph in the Richmond Ranges, so we were pleased that we had reached this point already. Some heavy rain and wind at times overnight.

Rintoul

January 11 12.8 km 8 hrs 10 mins

A fine sunny day for the highlight of the trip - Mt Rintoul and Little Rintoul ... not to mention a whole day of ridge top walking with no streams to cross ! First a walk along the ridge towards Bishops Cap, and then on to Purple Top where we had a mid morning stop to admire the views of Mt Rintoul, and the Mt Rintoul Hut on the ridge at its foot. Some wispy clouds about, so best to move on.

So down and along the lovely mossy ridge to the hut, and a brief stop before starting up the hill. The steeper part of the climb is only 400m from the south side, and at least half of that is on another bush track zigzagging up the hill, before emerging onto steep loose rock slopes up further. But soon enough the gradient lessened, and we had a good view of the top not too far away. The well poled route took us down and around some bluffs, and then up again, and from there a gentler walk up to the summit 1731m for a welcome lunch stop facing towards Little Rintoul. Although we never did get a full view of it because of the clouds blowing to and fro.

We did have some good views, especially out to the east, including to the Wairau Valley, and at times views back the way we had come, to the nearby steep valleys, and most parts of the narrow ridge leading to Little Rintoul.

Soon enough we set off onto the ridge, and then followed the markers that took us down the east side below some more bluffs, before starting on the climb back up again. Met Deb and Rob McColl and their companions just below the top and a final push had us at the Little Rintoul summit 1643m with good views onwards.

Down the rocky ridge and into the bush before soon reaching the turnoff down to Old Man Hut. Another lovely hut, just a shame that it is 200m down from the main track, and then 240m up the next morning !

Weather not improving - through the rest of the afternoon we watched the clouds being blown rapidly around the ridge, down the hillside, and often enough all around the hut. The forecast for the next day was no better, so we decided on an option for a later start, depending on what the new day brought.

Top Wairoa Hut to Tarn Hut

January 10 13.2km 7.5 hrs

A fine day, so time to set off down a better track - although the warnings re wasps and some carefully navigated steep sidling were apparent enough. So grateful to reach the Mid Wairoa hut for a late morning stop in the sunshine. A 400m+ climb ahead of us, so on we went at a steady pace, appreciating the good track that zigzagged its way up through the bush.

A little bit of drizzle at one point, but more from cloud than from rain, as we navigated our way past two intersections and then down a short distance to the Tarn Hut. Which predictably enough was beside a lovely big tarn, surrounded by bush. Tadpoles galore, and then at night the frogs really set to, although you could not hear them from inside the hut.

Porters Creek Hut to Top Wairoa Hut

January 9 17.2 km 9 hours 20 mins

Good time on more of the same sidling, deep creeks, and smallish saddles to Hunters Hut - ahead of DOC times again, but then definitely failed to keep to time on the next section.

Climbed up out of the Motueka River for lunch looking back towards Hunters Hut away in the distance, but this was the point where at times the marker poles became harder to spot because of their faded paint that made them merge easily into the landscape. We lost them altogether doing the slow rocky sidle of Mt Ellis, and remain convinced that where they actually are is lower down than the track marked on the topo map.

Anyway up onto the following ridge and down that for a while, and then a slow and difficult sidling descent down into the upper Wairoa valley - minimal markers / cairns - at least where we were, and even when the markers reappeared, the track was rough and hard on our tired bodies.

Some unexpected other guests arrived at an inconvenient moment after I hadn't quite put on my hut clothes after a good wash in the stream ! They provided warnings of track ahead, with wasp nests on the track, and steep sidling / and edging around bluffs

Richmond Ranges South to North Day 1

January 8 17.4 km 7 hours to Porters Creek Hut

Hazel dropped Dennis and I off at the SH63 end of the track in good time - a short bush section took us to a nicely graded 4WD track that took us up to the Red Hills Hut by mid morning. Every hut for the next 8 days was a real pleasure - mostly 5-6 people huts in lovely locations. Each day we normally reached a hut by mid to late morning, and then moved onto the next one for the night - but the spacing provides really good options for shorter days if the weather or peoples' bodies demand it !

Generally this is a harder section through almost all of the entire length - we were carrying 2 days spare food and used one of those by completing the route through to Pelorus Bridge in 7.5 days, rather than the planned 7 days.

A really exciting point from a TA point of view, given that we were travelling the reverse of the normal direction is the number of TA people we met each day - average probably just below 2 - 2 other kiwis, a lot of people from the US, and one Indian. So really providing a good view of the number of people TA is brinigning into the country.

The section from Red Hills Hut to Porters Creek Hut involves a steady sidle in a semi circle of the Red Hills, with some steep and rough descents and ascents into side streams which exposed the truly tortured nature of the landscape. A geologist's dream place I am sure, with all sorts of rocks all within a very small area.

St Arnaud Road Walk

January 7 10.5 km 1.75 hrs

A pleasant walk along the Wairau Valley SH63 road from the start / end of the Rickmond Ranges track back to St Arnaud and the start of the Lakehead track ... pleasant because it was a warm sunny afternoon and I had no pack to carry ! And not a very busy road.

Back to St Arnaud

Non TA deviation - January 5 - 7

via the Sabine River to Lake Rotoroa, then over the hill via the less strenuous route of the Speargrass Track. Winding down from our 12 day tramp, thinking of the next one to come. Arrived back in St Arnaud by late morning, thanks to a welcome pickup by Hazel at the Roberts Ridge carpark.

Waiau Pass

January 4 14.2 km 8.5 hrs

A wonderful brisk but sunny morning to head on up the Waiau River - track marked, but now getting a bit rougher as it sidles across a number of loose rocky slopes. Arrived at the Waiau Forks in good time, with Willi and Rob commenting on the increased amount of cleared camping places compared to a few years ago. Also a completely new track cut up through the scrub for the first part of the ascent.

A reasonably straight forward polled climb up onto a ridge, followed by a bit of scrambling up some rocky areas, before coming out onto a mix of scree and rock to sidle around all the way to the top of the Pass. A great place to stop for lunch with great mountain views in all directions - back down to the upper Waiau valley, a small part of Lake Thompson, and then the beautiful Lake Constance now in view.

Eventually time to move on down a mixture of scree sidling and steepish zigzag paths all the long long way to the little stream that runs into the head of Lake Constance. Time to relax and drink for a bit before moving on to the shore of Lake Constance. This is followed for a while right on the lake's edge, before a steep climb up, and then up some more, over bluffs and some - more rocky areas to cross up, down, sideways to reach the large moraine area at the other end of the lake.

Then a very gingerly following of the track down, trying to be kind to aching knees, ankles and feet, with more views of the superb gem that is Blue Lake to make it all a fitting end to a most perfect day on what must be one of the great highlights of TA .. if the weather is in your favour.

Finished the day relaxing on the warm rocks beside Blue Lake, with superb mountain views wherever you looked.

St James Walkway to Caroline Biv

January 3 2012 Approx 20.5 km 5.5 hrs on TA, plus another 3-4 hrs

Long but easier day ahead - first along the St James Walkway, past Christopher Hut, and rather than the now marked route, we stayed on the main Walkway for a few kms more, then headed across country to the corner of the Ada and Waiau valleys, before joining the main south to north track at a signposted junction.

A long but mostly fast track up the wide valley, with fine weather, but conscious of damper conditions not that much further to the west. Reached the dumpy little Carline Biv late afternoon - a place to stop and camp, but definitely not stay in the biv. There was talk of complaining to DOC about how the river (our water supply) is now across the other side of the valley .... A friendly robin trying to explore my tent.

A well marked track, now not requiring any full crossings of the Waiau River - thanks DOC.

Non Te Araroa deviation

Non Te Araroa deviation December 31 - January 3

See the summary in an earlier posting. Took the advantage of moving on with Willi and Rob to do a reverse trip from the planned schedule, covering a number of significant mountain passes - 5 in 5 days if you stretch a point and include Ada Pass (It is the Main Divide so sort of counts, although barely noticeable)

Blue Lake Hut

Blue Lake Hut - December 30 - hut day because of rain

Upper Travers to Blue Lake Hut

December 29 15km 9 hours

Early start because of heavy rain forecast later in the day, with a scheduled river crossing of the Sabine River where a recent flood had destroyed the swingbridge. Up 460m through the cloud to Travers Saddle in good time, but not much in the way of views today, and then a long descent, including an exposed shingly ridgeline before reaching the bushline again. A dramatic bridge across a very narrow but deep chasm of the E Sabine river, then on down and down through the bush to the junction of the E&W Sabine rivers.

Lunch at the point where a few large trees that had been washed down the flooded W Sabine had destroyed the swingbridge. The rain had only just started so the river was still fordable in groups, fortunately not having to use the fallen tree that spanned the main river. A great walk up alongside the rushing river with the occasional open patch for broader views .. in and out of avalanche prone areas, although not normally an issue by this time of year. Gentle rain continuing, so no reason to stop for more than a few minutes at a time. A final push up to the Blue Lake Hut where a party already in residence had the fire going and the hut warm - just what was needed for a damp day.

Lakehead to Upper Travers

December 28 18km 7.5 hrs est.

A pleasant start to the day walking up the Travers valley open grassy areas interspersed with patches of beech forest. Steady climb reaching the sunny John Tait Hut for lunch. A short diversion to see the very picturesque Travers Falls, and then a more steep 220m climb to the open grassy area leading towards the Upper Travers Hut. Good views of Mt Travers with patches of snow. The stream water is sooo cold !

St Arnaud to Lakehead Hut

December 27 2011 9km 2.5 hrs

Our ATC group of 7 set off early afternoon with our Heavy 12 day packs - grateful for a short flat walk today along the side of Lake Rotoiti mostly in beech forest. A super hut , but sandflies soon zoomed in for a feed. Walked over to the other side of the valley to where the Travers River now lows.

Pelorus Bridge to St James Summary

December 27 - Jan 15

Combining one of the Auckland Tramping Club's Christmas trips with Te Araroa is what this period is all about - not a standard through trip, and quite a bit more. This consisted of

Dec 27 - 29 St Arnaud to Blue Lake Hut
Dec 30 Hut day because of rain
Dec 31 Moss Pass - d'Urville River - Upper d'Urville Hut - 8hrs, big downhill from Moss Pass
Jan 1 David Saddle - E&W Matakitaki - Bobs Hut - 12 hrs 50 mins ... ahhh
Jan 2 W Matakitaki - 3 Tarns Pass - Ada Pass Hut - 9.5 hrs
Jan 3 St James Walkway joining the TA Waiau route late morning - north to Caroline Biv
Jan 4 Over Waiau Pass on a lovely sunny day to Blue Lake Hut
Jan 5 - 7 Back to St Arnaud via Sabine / Speargrass Hut
Jan 7 Road section from Richmond Ranges track to St Arnaud
Jan 8 - 15 South to North Richmond Ranges and Pelorus River track / road to Pelorus Bridge

The end result is that I covered the section from Pelorus Bridge to the St James Walkway with some great and very experienced tramping companions, and now keen to continue on south for up to 2 weeks more before heading back to Auckland again. Wonderful scenery, mostly good weather, and a much needed reminder of how much harder some parts of TA South Island are than further north.