Tony on Te Araroa 2

Goat Pass to Bealey

2012-01-28T17:42:00.004+13:00

January 24 20.8 kms 7.25 hrs

A cool but clear blue skies start to the day. Over Goat Pass and for all the way down to the river flats on a much improved track, with some significant sections of boardwalk to protect the wetland areas. A straightforward descent down into the Mingha valley with great views in all directions - to the tops and the valley ahead and behind.

Past the old Mingha Biv, and time for a final alpine stop at Dudleys Knob for morning tea. From there the track descends to the main river valley, and you then follow the river all the way down on increasingly wider river flats towards the Bealey River.

Rather than taking the foot track out to Greyneys Shelter, I followed a 4WD track alongside the Bealey River as far as the railway bridge, and then headed across the rocky river bed to Klondyke corner - the main river has now moved from where it is marked on the topo map.

After a lunch stop, a poled 4WD route continued on across the river flats towards the Waimakariri river and the Bealey hotel where Hazel was already in residence. She spotted me coming, so was able to come down to the river bank to watch one aborted river crossing, followed by a successful one. Not a river to play with, especially when there is a bridge not much more than a km away, but yet again I was fortunate that there had not been rain in the area for a few days, and my trusty old tent pole made all the difference between it being a safe rather than a dangerous crossing.

Hazel then dropped me off at my intended end point at the start of the Cass Lagoon track, and I walked back to the Bealey hotel from there.

A tremendous location with mountains and valleys all around, with the wide shingly river beds so typical of Canterbury rivers.

I now need to return home to Auckland, but intend to be back in the autumn to continue on some more - hopefully as far as the Rangitata River.

Deception River to Goat Pass

2012-01-28T17:26:00.003+13:00

January 23 15 kms 8.5 hrs

A cold clear morning, with the sun taking a good couple of hours to reach me in the Deception River valley. Slow going on rough tracks, almost always close to the river, with a number of river crossings throughout the day - getting easier the further I travelled upstream.

A really lovely valley, with the rushing Deception River always providing a real picture to enjoy. A few marked sections in the bush, and rock cairns recommending river crossings, etc, so mostly easy to find the best route to follow.

The Deception - Goat Pass - Mingha route is the mountain running section of the Coast to Coast race that occurs around March each year, with the fastest runners taking an amazing 3 to 4 hours for the whole route. So I was duly passed by 4 runners in training during the day ... each to our own mode of travel !

Near the end the trail left the main river and headed up, mostly in, a side stream to the Goat Pass Hut, just a few minutes below the pass itself. The blue sky that was present for most of the day was replaced by high cloud and a cool breeze in the evening, but it was still a great time to get up onto the pass itself for a look around.

Otira

2012-01-28T17:07:00.002+13:00

January 22 11.8 kms 2hrs 50 mins

A short day today, so a bit of a lie in, waiting for the last showers to finish.

Mostly easy walking following a 4WD track down towards the Otira River. A short diversion onto the marked start of the flood track, but even at the start that was muddy and uneven, so I reverted to my original plan of crossing the Otira River at the usual place near Aickens. The river appeared not influenced by the overnight showers, but still a significant river crossing to take care over.

From there a short walk along the marked edge of a paddock to SH73, and then a pleasant walk along the road to the Morrisons footbridge, the agreed meeting place with Hazel for the day.

We stayed the night in the large old Otira hotel ... very comfortably away from the rain ... and snow on the tops ... during the afternoon.

Harper Pass and Taramakau River

2012-01-26T21:58:00.003+13:00

January 21 25.5 kms 9.5 hrs

Not especially fast going along the Upper Hurinui valley - again missing the frequent forest markers when the track went out onto the grassy river flats, etc. At one point after travelling for some time I was a bit stuck for the next section, so explored up a hillside, then sat down for break and a chance to check my GPS. Hmmm... that said (correctly) that I had just passed the (bright orange) Harper Pass biv a short distance up the hillside from the track !

From there a relatively short ascent to Harper Pass, and the view it provided along the Taramakau River valley - a long way below. As promised, the descent was steep and required a lot of care on the at time rocky or narrow path. But continued on reaching the special Locke Stream Hut for a later lunch break.

Soon after you end up on open river flats, with most of the time being able to follow a well enough used path, so easy to cover quite a bit of ground relatively quickly. A few crossings of the Taramakau River, but no issues because the last few days had seen minimal or no rain. Happy enough to do the side trip to the old Kiwi hut, where 3 hunters were in residence, having driven their 4WD vehicle up the valley to just below the hut.

From there a final crossing of the main river, and then a significant crossing of the Otehake River - made that bit more straightforward because it was in 2 channels. Target achieved for the day, so found a suitable camping place, with showers forecast for overnight.

Hope Kiwi to Hurunui No 3

2012-01-26T21:40:00.004+13:00

January 20 29kms 8 hrs 20 mins

Off wandering up the valley on a 4WD track and easily navigated the bog at its end before starting the climb up through the forest towards the Kiwi Saddle area. From there sidling the hillside downwards, with occasional glimpses of Lake Sumner. Out into the open for a short while at the head of the lake, but soon enough back into a the forest wandering along for some distance - ostensibly to avoid boggy patches on the open valley floor.

Exited the forest at the sign for the Upper Hurinui swingbridge, but soon enough wandered off track towards the other side of the valley. The crossing of the river there was significant, but viable, and another chance to practise my solo river crossing skills. Almost immediately the track then climbed up a short distance to the spacious Hurinui Hut for a welcome lunch stop.

From there the track follows the river upstream, mostly in the forest, but occasionally exiting to river flats ... with minimal markers, but not hard to guess the direction of travel, while still watching out for the next forested section. A real highlight part way along is a natural hot pool, so a chance for a refreshing dip for all parts of me that could get below the water level - the hungry sandflies set to on the rest !

Then not much further to the old Hurinui No 3 hut for the night. On entering the foyer there were a set of old canvas bunks - but no cause for concern as through the next door were the main bunks with full mattresses !

Magdalen Hut to Hope Kiwi Lodge

2012-01-26T20:47:00.003+13:00

January 19 37.5 kms 10.5 hrs, Plus 1 hour reprovisioning stop with Hazel at the Boyle shelter

An early start for what was expected to be a long day, and so a fast walk back onto the St James Walkway, then out to SH7 at the Boyle shelter (2.5 hours). I had requested a sandwich as extra supplies ... but Hazel had made 3 - isn't she wonderful !

With more food and an old 6 ft tent pole for river crossing purposes, I then set off along the Tui Track - first parallel to the main road, and then over river flats to my first significant river crossing - the Boyle River. All OK. Across some river flats to the next - the Doubtful River - more serious, but successful on the second attempt. Then on around following the Boyle River downstream on an old 4WD track. A slightly tedious marked deviation around the outside of a deer fence, and then up the hill and around and about for ages, mostly through manuka scrub.

This eventually joined the main Hope Kiwi track not that far from Windy Point, with this quickly entering the beech forest on terraces a good way above the Hope River. Faster travelling now, first in the forest to the Hope Shelter, and then soon after down onto a long grassy area that eventually ended in a swingbridge over the turquoise Hope gorge.

A sign said 2 km 45 mins to the lodge, which my temporary watch then told me took 10 mins - very temporary indeed ! Some fishermen in residence with fresh trout to cook for their dinner, and a number of other people staying as well, making this the most popular hut since I had been in the Nelson Lakes area.

St James Walkway - Day 2

2012-01-26T20:30:00.004+13:00

Delta Stream - Anne River - Boyle River - Magdalen Hut

January 18 27km 8 hours

Awoke to a cold but clear morning with ice on my tent. Across the river flats to the new Anne River Hut, now no longer near the river after its recent rebuild, and then up the picturesque Anne valley towards the Anne Saddle. At this point I passed two family groups - one with an eager 5 year old - still eager after a few days on the walkway.

Over the Saddle and then down to and then along the Boyle valley. A few parts had obvious recent storm / flood damage, but no significant issues with that. Checked out the Boyle Flats Hut (Great location) which is accessed by its own swing bridge, and then continued on to the smaller Magdalen Hut, which is just 20 minutes off the main walkway. Sunny afternoon, so able to dry all gear - even my socks, although I well knew that in 2 minutes' walking the next morning they would be wet again !

St James Walkway Again Day 1

2012-01-26T19:52:00.003+13:00

Lewis Pass - Ada Pass - Christopher Hut - Camping at Delta Stream

January 17 29.5 km 8.25 hrs approx

Picked up again at the start of the St James Walkway near the Lewis Pass summit so as to rejoin the Te Araroa trail where I have left off a couple of weeks before when Willi, Rob and I had headed north up the Waiau valley. Lovely sunny day, and quiet on the walkway, meeting only 2 other people during the day. As usual the sandflies made the evening more energetic than planned, but nevertheless it was a great open place to camp with enough dry Canterbury mountains all around.

Easy walking on a very pleasant St James Walkway, so able to cover quite a bit of ground, after a later start than usual because of the drive from my day off in Murchison.

A lovely clear night - the stars were absolutely brilliant

Captains Creek to Pelorus Bridge

2012-01-16T18:27:00.002+13:00

January 15 21.5 km 6 hours

A pleasant walk on a sunny day out to the end of the track on Maungatapu Rd, and then a short walk along the road before Hazel and the van arrived with a Fresh Food Feast - what more can a tramper want after over a week on dehy food and muesli bars ! For Dennis (who is not doing TA ... yet) this was the well deserved end of his tramping for now. For me a more hurried eat up, dumping of pack in the van, and then off down the road to Pelorus Bridge. The absolute Joy of walking with no pack made the 13km a real breeze, so arrived at the Bridge soon enough to admire the view of the sparkling waters below - unlike the brown in flood river when I walked to
here last April from the Queen Charlotte Track.

Now I have completed TA from Cape Reinga to the St James Walkway, so time for a day off tomorrow to reprovision and get on the trail again.

Roebuck Hut to Captains Creek Hut

2012-01-16T18:26:00.002+13:00

January 14 12.5km 5.75 hours

Our slightly extended trip means we were now into shorter days - for Dennis this was tramping day 29, and for me day 19, with our bodies complaining suitably about the last week of hard tramping.

Another fine day as we set off - for around half way to Middy Creek Hut the track was again narrow, sidling and slow, but eventually it improved as we joined first the junction to the Rocks Hut track, and then arrived at Middy Creek Hut for an early lunch in the sunshine.

I would not recommend that the Roebuck Hut route is the standard route - based on the comments from the ATC group we met, I would strongly recommend that other trampers do what they did, which is to go from Middy Creek Hut up to Rocks Hut, and then down again to Totara Saddle, not far from Browning Hut. Faster, more comfortable, and a chance for some good views on the tops around Rocks Hut (and even a side trip to Dun Mountain). The Roebuck to Totara Saddle section does not even have the benefit of river views.

Anyway, a short hop from Middy Creek to Captains Creek Hut, and then a lazy afternoon in the sunshine by the beautiful deep green Pelorus River. More TA people arrived to share the hut with us that evening - only the second night out of 7 that we had company.

Starveall Hut to Roebuck Hut

2012-01-16T18:25:00.002+13:00

January 13 20.1 km 8.75 hrs

Awoke in cloud again, but no wind, so keen enough to start on the long 900m descent to Hacket Hut, knowing that we had to take it slow and steady because of the damp forest floor. Nearer the top especially the amount of large trees blown over in various storms was amazing - a good place not to be when the wind is up, and thanks to DOC for having cleared the track so well in spite of it all.

Concentrating so hard on our footing we missed Pyramid Rock (a landmark part way down), but eventually reached Hacket Creek and met one of the parties from the Auck Tramping Club's Interim trip on their way up. A good chance to swap notes, to get another wasp warning, and then depart in our opposite directions.

Hacket Hut (our original scheduled destination the night before) looked to have had a late night party, so grateful that we had not ended up there after all.... So on to Browning Hut for an early lunch.

Climb up to Totara Saddle was fine - only another 200m from the hut, but then, as the track notes suggested, the track became a hard slog for quite a few hours - narrow track sidling a steep hillside with plenty of chances for tripping and slipping. Eventually it sidled onto a ridge between the Mates and Roebuck Creek cachments, and then a final descent down to the Roebuck Hut on the Pelorus River bank.

Old Man Hut to Starveall Hut

2012-01-16T18:24:00.001+13:00

January 12 15.2 km 7.25 hours

Weather no better the next day - not a lot of wind, but cloud everywhere, so left it for 2 hours before deciding to move on. So then a day in cloud all day passing over a number of high open points with no views, and at times only able to spot the next marker pole half way towards it.

Great country though, so we definitely aim to be back on a fine day to enjoy the views from all the high points - 3 over 1500m. Arrived at Starveall Hut and warmed things up for a short while with our only fire of this trip.

Forecast for the next day of gales of up to 130kph in the Richmond Ranges, so we were pleased that we had reached this point already. Some heavy rain and wind at times overnight.

Rintoul

2012-01-16T18:22:00.002+13:00

January 11 12.8 km 8 hrs 10 mins

A fine sunny day for the highlight of the trip - Mt Rintoul and Little Rintoul ... not to mention a whole day of ridge top walking with no streams to cross ! First a walk along the ridge towards Bishops Cap, and then on to Purple Top where we had a mid morning stop to admire the views of Mt Rintoul, and the Mt Rintoul Hut on the ridge at its foot. Some wispy clouds about, so best to move on.

So down and along the lovely mossy ridge to the hut, and a brief stop before starting up the hill. The steeper part of the climb is only 400m from the south side, and at least half of that is on another bush track zigzagging up the hill, before emerging onto steep loose rock slopes up further. But soon enough the gradient lessened, and we had a good view of the top not too far away. The well poled route took us down and around some bluffs, and then up again, and from there a gentler walk up to the summit 1731m for a welcome lunch stop facing towards Little Rintoul. Although we never did get a full view of it because of the clouds blowing to and fro.

We did have some good views, especially out to the east, including to the Wairau Valley, and at times views back the way we had come, to the nearby steep valleys, and most parts of the narrow ridge leading to Little Rintoul.

Soon enough we set off onto the ridge, and then followed the markers that took us down the east side below some more bluffs, before starting on the climb back up again. Met Deb and Rob McColl and their companions just below the top and a final push had us at the Little Rintoul summit 1643m with good views onwards.

Down the rocky ridge and into the bush before soon reaching the turnoff down to Old Man Hut. Another lovely hut, just a shame that it is 200m down from the main track, and then 240m up the next morning !

Weather not improving - through the rest of the afternoon we watched the clouds being blown rapidly around the ridge, down the hillside, and often enough all around the hut. The forecast for the next day was no better, so we decided on an option for a later start, depending on what the new day brought.

Top Wairoa Hut to Tarn Hut

2012-01-16T18:21:00.001+13:00

January 10 13.2km 7.5 hrs

A fine day, so time to set off down a better track - although the warnings re wasps and some carefully navigated steep sidling were apparent enough. So grateful to reach the Mid Wairoa hut for a late morning stop in the sunshine. A 400m+ climb ahead of us, so on we went at a steady pace, appreciating the good track that zigzagged its way up through the bush.

A little bit of drizzle at one point, but more from cloud than from rain, as we navigated our way past two intersections and then down a short distance to the Tarn Hut. Which predictably enough was beside a lovely big tarn, surrounded by bush. Tadpoles galore, and then at night the frogs really set to, although you could not hear them from inside the hut.

Porters Creek Hut to Top Wairoa Hut

2012-01-16T18:20:00.003+13:00

January 9 17.2 km 9 hours 20 mins

Good time on more of the same sidling, deep creeks, and smallish saddles to Hunters Hut - ahead of DOC times again, but then definitely failed to keep to time on the next section.

Climbed up out of the Motueka River for lunch looking back towards Hunters Hut away in the distance, but this was the point where at times the marker poles became harder to spot because of their faded paint that made them merge easily into the landscape. We lost them altogether doing the slow rocky sidle of Mt Ellis, and remain convinced that where they actually are is lower down than the track marked on the topo map.

Anyway up onto the following ridge and down that for a while, and then a slow and difficult sidling descent down into the upper Wairoa valley - minimal markers / cairns - at least where we were, and even when the markers reappeared, the track was rough and hard on our tired bodies.

Some unexpected other guests arrived at an inconvenient moment after I hadn't quite put on my hut clothes after a good wash in the stream ! They provided warnings of track ahead, with wasp nests on the track, and steep sidling / and edging around bluffs

Richmond Ranges South to North Day 1

2012-01-16T18:18:00.004+13:00

January 8 17.4 km 7 hours to Porters Creek Hut

Hazel dropped Dennis and I off at the SH63 end of the track in good time - a short bush section took us to a nicely graded 4WD track that took us up to the Red Hills Hut by mid morning. Every hut for the next 8 days was a real pleasure - mostly 5-6 people huts in lovely locations. Each day we normally reached a hut by mid to late morning, and then moved onto the next one for the night - but the spacing provides really good options for shorter days if the weather or peoples' bodies demand it !

Generally this is a harder section through almost all of the entire length - we were carrying 2 days spare food and used one of those by completing the route through to Pelorus Bridge in 7.5 days, rather than the planned 7 days.

A really exciting point from a TA point of view, given that we were travelling the reverse of the normal direction is the number of TA people we met each day - average probably just below 2 - 2 other kiwis, a lot of people from the US, and one Indian. So really providing a good view of the number of people TA is brinigning into the country.

The section from Red Hills Hut to Porters Creek Hut involves a steady sidle in a semi circle of the Red Hills, with some steep and rough descents and ascents into side streams which exposed the truly tortured nature of the landscape. A geologist's dream place I am sure, with all sorts of rocks all within a very small area.

St Arnaud Road Walk

2012-01-16T18:18:00.001+13:00

January 7 10.5 km 1.75 hrs

A pleasant walk along the Wairau Valley SH63 road from the start / end of the Rickmond Ranges track back to St Arnaud and the start of the Lakehead track ... pleasant because it was a warm sunny afternoon and I had no pack to carry ! And not a very busy road.

Back to St Arnaud

2012-01-16T18:17:00.001+13:00

Non TA deviation - January 5 - 7

via the Sabine River to Lake Rotoroa, then over the hill via the less strenuous route of the Speargrass Track. Winding down from our 12 day tramp, thinking of the next one to come. Arrived back in St Arnaud by late morning, thanks to a welcome pickup by Hazel at the Roberts Ridge carpark.

Waiau Pass

2012-01-16T18:15:00.002+13:00

January 4 14.2 km 8.5 hrs

A wonderful brisk but sunny morning to head on up the Waiau River - track marked, but now getting a bit rougher as it sidles across a number of loose rocky slopes. Arrived at the Waiau Forks in good time, with Willi and Rob commenting on the increased amount of cleared camping places compared to a few years ago. Also a completely new track cut up through the scrub for the first part of the ascent.

A reasonably straight forward polled climb up onto a ridge, followed by a bit of scrambling up some rocky areas, before coming out onto a mix of scree and rock to sidle around all the way to the top of the Pass. A great place to stop for lunch with great mountain views in all directions - back down to the upper Waiau valley, a small part of Lake Thompson, and then the beautiful Lake Constance now in view.

Eventually time to move on down a mixture of scree sidling and steepish zigzag paths all the long long way to the little stream that runs into the head of Lake Constance. Time to relax and drink for a bit before moving on to the shore of Lake Constance. This is followed for a while right on the lake's edge, before a steep climb up, and then up some more, over bluffs and some - more rocky areas to cross up, down, sideways to reach the large moraine area at the other end of the lake.

Then a very gingerly following of the track down, trying to be kind to aching knees, ankles and feet, with more views of the superb gem that is Blue Lake to make it all a fitting end to a most perfect day on what must be one of the great highlights of TA .. if the weather is in your favour.

Finished the day relaxing on the warm rocks beside Blue Lake, with superb mountain views wherever you looked.

St James Walkway to Caroline Biv

2012-01-16T18:14:00.003+13:00

January 3 2012 Approx 20.5 km 5.5 hrs on TA, plus another 3-4 hrs

Long but easier day ahead - first along the St James Walkway, past Christopher Hut, and rather than the now marked route, we stayed on the main Walkway for a few kms more, then headed across country to the corner of the Ada and Waiau valleys, before joining the main south to north track at a signposted junction.

A long but mostly fast track up the wide valley, with fine weather, but conscious of damper conditions not that much further to the west. Reached the dumpy little Carline Biv late afternoon - a place to stop and camp, but definitely not stay in the biv. There was talk of complaining to DOC about how the river (our water supply) is now across the other side of the valley .... A friendly robin trying to explore my tent.

A well marked track, now not requiring any full crossings of the Waiau River - thanks DOC.

Non Te Araroa deviation

2012-01-16T18:12:00.002+13:00

Non Te Araroa deviation December 31 - January 3

See the summary in an earlier posting. Took the advantage of moving on with Willi and Rob to do a reverse trip from the planned schedule, covering a number of significant mountain passes - 5 in 5 days if you stretch a point and include Ada Pass (It is the Main Divide so sort of counts, although barely noticeable)

Blue Lake Hut

2012-01-16T18:11:00.000+13:00

Blue Lake Hut - December 30 - hut day because of rain

Upper Travers to Blue Lake Hut

2012-01-16T18:09:00.002+13:00

December 29 15km 9 hours

Early start because of heavy rain forecast later in the day, with a scheduled river crossing of the Sabine River where a recent flood had destroyed the swingbridge. Up 460m through the cloud to Travers Saddle in good time, but not much in the way of views today, and then a long descent, including an exposed shingly ridgeline before reaching the bushline again. A dramatic bridge across a very narrow but deep chasm of the E Sabine river, then on down and down through the bush to the junction of the E&W Sabine rivers.

Lunch at the point where a few large trees that had been washed down the flooded W Sabine had destroyed the swingbridge. The rain had only just started so the river was still fordable in groups, fortunately not having to use the fallen tree that spanned the main river. A great walk up alongside the rushing river with the occasional open patch for broader views .. in and out of avalanche prone areas, although not normally an issue by this time of year. Gentle rain continuing, so no reason to stop for more than a few minutes at a time. A final push up to the Blue Lake Hut where a party already in residence had the fire going and the hut warm - just what was needed for a damp day.

Lakehead to Upper Travers

2012-01-16T18:08:00.002+13:00

December 28 18km 7.5 hrs est.

A pleasant start to the day walking up the Travers valley open grassy areas interspersed with patches of beech forest. Steady climb reaching the sunny John Tait Hut for lunch. A short diversion to see the very picturesque Travers Falls, and then a more steep 220m climb to the open grassy area leading towards the Upper Travers Hut. Good views of Mt Travers with patches of snow. The stream water is sooo cold !

St Arnaud to Lakehead Hut

2012-01-16T18:06:00.002+13:00

December 27 2011 9km 2.5 hrs

Our ATC group of 7 set off early afternoon with our Heavy 12 day packs - grateful for a short flat walk today along the side of Lake Rotoiti mostly in beech forest. A super hut , but sandflies soon zoomed in for a feed. Walked over to the other side of the valley to where the Travers River now lows.

Pelorus Bridge to St James Summary

2012-01-16T18:01:00.002+13:00

December 27 - Jan 15

Combining one of the Auckland Tramping Club's Christmas trips with Te Araroa is what this period is all about - not a standard through trip, and quite a bit more. This consisted of

Dec 27 - 29 St Arnaud to Blue Lake Hut
Dec 30 Hut day because of rain
Dec 31 Moss Pass - d'Urville River - Upper d'Urville Hut - 8hrs, big downhill from Moss Pass
Jan 1 David Saddle - E&W Matakitaki - Bobs Hut - 12 hrs 50 mins ... ahhh
Jan 2 W Matakitaki - 3 Tarns Pass - Ada Pass Hut - 9.5 hrs
Jan 3 St James Walkway joining the TA Waiau route late morning - north to Caroline Biv
Jan 4 Over Waiau Pass on a lovely sunny day to Blue Lake Hut
Jan 5 - 7 Back to St Arnaud via Sabine / Speargrass Hut
Jan 7 Road section from Richmond Ranges track to St Arnaud
Jan 8 - 15 South to North Richmond Ranges and Pelorus River track / road to Pelorus Bridge

The end result is that I covered the section from Pelorus Bridge to the St James Walkway with some great and very experienced tramping companions, and now keen to continue on south for up to 2 weeks more before heading back to Auckland again. Wonderful scenery, mostly good weather, and a much needed reminder of how much harder some parts of TA South Island are than further north.

TA Opening and Plans for summer 2011 - 2012

2011-12-17T20:33:00.003+13:00

It was great to be at the official opening of Te Araroa with Hazel on December 3rd and from it get a better appreciation of the major undertaking that has brought TA to this point. The Island Bay setting was superb and the weather was so kind. Afterwards we followed TA back into the city, as ever impressed by how strenuous Wellington city walks can be !

Soon after Christmas I will be on the trail again, first from St Arnaud south to the St James Walkway and then a big loop back to St Arnaud with a party from the Auckland Tramping Club. Then reversing my normal direction, two of us will be going south to north up the Richmond Ranges, so that I can then complete the TA route up to Pelorus Bridge, where I arrived from the north back in April. All going well I will then travel back down to the top of the St James Walkway and follow that until where my first trip left off, and then continue, ever on.

Queen Charlotte Track to Pelorus Bridge

2011-04-25T15:44:00.003+12:00

Sunday 24th April 38.5 km 8 hours, including a good break in The Mussel Pot, Havelock, for lunch

Rained all night, and pleased that my tent coped remarkably well. Packed up in the rain, and then off on the last 30 minutes of the Queen Charlotte Track to Anakiwa. Water everywhere, and the rain continuing on through the day only too regularly. So now at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound, with a combination of walking tracks and roads to take me away west from the sound, and over to the head of an arm of Pelorus Sound.

As promised the side track up Mahakipawa Hill was steep, but fortunately not the bare clay surface going up as per the TA notes - if it had been, that would have meant a road diversion. But steep up, and then steep and more slippery down with Havelock being so close at the bottom, so a lot of care needed to stay on my feet - success !

Patchy views of the surrounding hills, and the Sounds looking quite brown from the runoff from all the rivers and creeks that were now in flood. After lunch along SH6 towards Canvastown, with time to watch the flooded rivers and creeks, and the many waterfalls on the side of the road. With the creeks flooded, at Daltons Bridge, rather than taking the new track from there to Pelorus Bridge (which has side creeks to cross) I stayed on the main road. As soon as I reached the Pelorus Bridge DOC sign a sandfly spotted me.

A change into dry clothes (yay!), a pie at the cafe, and time now to leave Te Araroa until next summer. Richmond Ranges ahead, which are serious tramping country - I will have to check out my options before continuing on.

Queen Charlotte Track Day 2

2011-04-25T15:37:00.003+12:00

Saturday 23rd April 7.5 hrs 32.5 km

Bay Of Many Coves campsite to Umungata (Davies) Bay campsite. Now along the ridge between Queen Charlotte and Kerepuru Sounds, with views sometimes to one side, and sometimes to the other. Fortunately not following the exact contours of the ridge, so not a steep up and down track all the time - just some of the time when coming to the lower saddles between the two Sounds.

By late morning the occasional light drizzle had become occasional, and then more persistent rain. But not cold or windy, so relatively pleasant if you kept moving. Track becoming a bit more slippery in places, but staying on my feet all of today. Pitched tent in the rain, and it now really was quite continuous. Just about at the end of the track, but stopped here because this is the last DOC campsite.

South Island - Queen Charlotte Track

2011-04-25T15:24:00.002+12:00

Easter Friday 22nd April 36 km 7 hours

From Ship Cove to Bay of Many Coves campsite. A fine day with some cloud, but wet weather on the way, so making the most of it today.

Time for a quick look at the Cook memorial, then off up the hill away from Ship Cove. In and out of little valleys, past Resolution Bay then up to a saddle looking down into Endeavour Inlet. Where I caught up with the large group of mountain bikers who had passed me earlier. But then they were gone off down the hill.

A close encounter with the track, courtesy of a tree root, left a bit o damage, but nothing to hold me up too long. Down along the shore of Endeavour Inlet, on past the houses at the end, and then a lunch stop looking back to where I had been an hour or so earlier. And so the track winds on, into and out of Big Bay, and then the direct route up to Kerepuru Saddle (bypassing Camp Bay) Now views of Sounds on both sides of the track, notably from the 2 Eastwell lookouts - the second especially a superb high point up a steep side track.

And so on to the Bay of Many Coves campsite on the ridge looking down into Queen Charlotte Sound. A weka tried to souvenir one of my walking socks, but had the sense to understand that it was fairly undesirable, leaving it a short way off in the undergrowth.

North Island Last Day

2011-03-28T20:42:00.006+13:00

Sunday 27th March 20.5 kms 6 hrs

A wandering track took me up into the cloud again on my way to Mt Kaukau and then along the Skyline Walkway in what Wellingtonians would call a light breeze - others would just say it was quite windy. Then down into the western suburbs of Ngaio and Wadestown through some charming parks and streets to the Botanic Gardens. But learning quickly that walking around Wellington involves very few level stretches.

The Northern Walkway route took me to the Botanic Gardens and the top of the Cable Car, and the City to Sea Walkway then took me without too many hitches down to the southern coast at Island Bay - more hills, more parks, and then just when it should give up and go down to the sea, it zigzagged up a final hill and along a ridge line just at the same time that it really did rain for a while.

But there it was - the south coast of the North Island and so I was soon down onto a pleasant walk around The Esplanade to the official end of Te Araroa North Island in the main settlement at Island Bay. Great sea and sky views, no southerly wind blasting me, so what a great way to finish my North Island travels. In the picture is Taputeranga Island just off the coast at Island Bay.

Queen Elizabeth Park to the Wellington hills

2011-03-28T20:29:00.002+13:00

Saturday 26th March 47.8 kms 8.75 hrs

Off on a drizzly morning down the coastal side of Queen Elizabeth Park as the good metalled track wandered up and down and around the sandhills. Leaving the park the trail followed the coastal road through Paekakariki to take me onto the section of SH1 that is almost in the sea. Still drizzly at times, until after I had reached Pukerua Bay and climbed up and over the hill there.

Then the trail took me up further onto a high point with some great views, especially as I was coming down into Plimmerton - looking down along Porirua Harbour in a splendid mixed sunny and cloudy landscape. So down to the sea again and around through Mana and Paremata to a lunch stop at a pleasant Aotea Lagoon - so close to a busy road, but hidden away so that you would not know it is there.

Then on through Porirua itself and up into the hills behind - hundreds of steps took me up through and out of the bush, leading to Colonial Knob. I must return there when there is no cloud about, since then the views would be superb. So down through a steep and slippery section of pine trees to Ohariu Valley - along the road to the end of Rifle Range Rd ready for tomorrow's final north island section. Horse lovers' heaven around here.

Otaki Forks to Queen Elizabeth Park

2011-03-28T20:20:00.002+13:00

Friday 25th March 53 km 9.25 hrs

Back to Otaki Forks by the swingbridge to walk out along the road, past the historic stone fences, and through the shady Totara Reserve overhanging the road. Around and into the hills again on Mangaone North Rd, and then onto the Mangaone Walkway. Delayed for a while because of ripe blackberries, then up and over a low saddle, into an open grassy area, and then back into some pleasant bush, all on easy tracks.

More roads down to Waikanae, then onto the walkway following the meandering Waikanae Stream almost all the way to the coast. Then onto the beach at Paraparaumu, with Kapiti Island looming close by, and views of the South Island in the distance. So down the coast, sometimes on the beach, sometimes on the coastal road until I arrived at the north end of Queen Elizabeth Park. A calm sea, minimal wind, and very pleasant walking on what is often a very windswept coastline.

Tararua Tops Day 4

2011-03-04T17:27:00.003+13:00

Friday 4th March 10kms 4.5 hours

Gusty winds even in the Otaki valley, so pleased to be walking out today. A walk through at times very dark bush alogside the Otaki River, before walking up alongside a side stream into an area called the Plateau. The expected light rain started at that point, so nothing to cause me to dawdle along the way.

Then down another small stream, crossing it many times, and at times in the stream bed itself. Then eventually onto a track using an old logging tramway, so from there the going was mostly easier, barring one more steep climb to go over the top of a huge slip. So arrived at the Otaki Forks carpark just before midday.

I am thrilled that in the last few days I had now completed the most difficult section of Te Araroa North Island, and needing to be back in Auckland this weekend, it is time to halt my Te Araroa wanderings for the moment, and find some time for the remaining few days down to Wellington soon.

Tararua Tops Day 3

2011-03-04T17:09:00.002+13:00

Thursday 3rd March 21 kms 10 hrs 45 mins Ascent 2130m Descent 2760m

An early start from Te Matawai hut had me walking through and then above the early morning cloud to the junction near Pukematawai and from there it was a regular up and down along the Main Ridge track, that runs on a ridge along the middle of the Tararuas. So past Butcher Knob, Dracophyllum Knob / Hut (3.5 hrs), Puketoro, Kelleher, and then up to Nicholls (3 hrs). From there seriously on open ridgeline to the top of Mt Crawford.

From there views in all directions - Ruapehu, Mt Taranaki, the Wairarapa, Kapiti Island, and peaks in the northern South Island. And of course closer to hand the dramatic peaks and deep valleys of the Tararuas in all directions. I have never been here before, so really thrilled to be here on a good day. Most of the time you are walking along the top of a fairly narrow ridge, and very strong winds are frequent, so it is just not possible if the weather is bad.

Then down, down, down (arrggh!) to the Otaki River and the warm Waitewaewae hut. Ideally this day's section should be done in 1.5 days, but time and weather forecasts meant that it was prudent to have one long day and get off the tops. In the event, given Froday's weather, that was a correct decision - I could easily have been stuck up in another hut for another couple of nights waiting for the wind to go down. Anyway - a really trmemendous, if long, day.

Tararua Tops Day 2

2011-03-04T17:06:00.001+13:00

Wednesday 2nd March 0kms 0hrs

As per all the weather forecasts, today had two options - Plan A - stay put and wait for tomorrow, or Plan B - get a half day break in the bad weather and move on to the next hut. In the event at 5.45, and at 7.30 I went back to my sleeping bag, and the weather did not improve until the evening. Tomorrow will be a longer day as a result

Tararua Tops Day 1

2011-03-04T16:59:00.002+13:00

Tuesday 1st March 16kms 6 hrs 45 mins

From Poads Rd near Levin to Te Matawai Hut. As the route directions say - ascent 1500m, descnt800m. Starting with a short walk across farmland, and then into the Tararua bush. A steady climb up and out of the bush to Waiopehu Hut (3.5 hrs). That has a great view out to the west, but not today as I was now in drippy cloud.

From there up some more to some peaks over 1000m, followed by a significant descent to Butchers Saddle before the final climb to Te Matawai Hut. Not many Te Araroa walkers in the hut books ... this section can only be done if you are really keen and the weather is in your favour.

Mangahao - Makahika Track

2011-02-28T16:23:00.001+13:00

Monday Feb 28th 21.5 kms 6 hours

Another drive up the winding Mangahao Rd from Shannon to the other side of the hill near the Tokomaru No 3 Reservoir. Signs advising of logging trucks fortunately did not result in any appearing.

So, off around to the other side of the reservoir, and then onto the track itself - a well formed track with easy gradients, that wound its way up through what was initially very dark bush (a cloudy morning). Such a good track in fact that in less than 2 hours from the track sign I reached the Horowhenua Lookout - on paper supposed to be a 3-4 hr walk.

Anyway, views out across the district with Shannon, Foxton, Foxton Beach, and the Manawatu River able to be identified via binoculars. Soon after there was a different view along the length of the Makahika Valley, which is where the track was to take me - down, down and more down, before arriving alongside the little Makahika Stream, which the track them crossed and recrossed many times, following the path of an old bush tramway for a long way. Following that, through open scrub and farmland, out onto the end of Gladstone Rd.

A few kms walk down the road, then up to the end of Poads Rd, from where the Tararua Tops section of Te Araroa starts. This is a short drive from Levin.

Burtons Track

2011-02-27T18:12:00.003+13:00

Sunday 21st Feb 16.6 kms 5.5 hours

This track is closed (actually road access is difficult, not so much the track) during the week, so being Sunday (with the shingle trucks not working either) we thought we were safe - until we reached the the start of the climb up Scotts Rd to find the road blocked off waiting for a logging truck to come down - and 3 empty ones pulled up behind us soon after. They were working an unscheduled day because of an urgent need for more logs down in Lyttelton, the centre of the recent Christchurch earthquake. But problem solved with cadging a ride up the road with one of the trucks, so Hazel did not have to dodge the trucks on what is only a one way road where logging trucks are concerned.

So to the start of the day's walk - on closer inspection of the map and GPS a bit short of the expected spot, but like all tracks through forestry areas, the reality and the maps / instructions can soon differ. Anyway, off up along forestry roads, soon in a different direction from the current logging operations up a minor old forestry road to a high point with a brief view out across the plains towards the sea. Then onto a real tramping track at last (the official start of Burtons Track) that went downwards towards the Tokomaru Stream. Time for wet feet from stream crossings for the first time since being in the Tongariro Forest a couple of weeks ago. Then I followed the tramping track and old vehicle tracks upstream, past the old Burtons whare site, until arriving at the pickup point for the day. Satellite phone calls to confirm the pickup time, and then time to relax waiting for Hazel in our white van. So I was a bit dismayed when a white van arrived at the right time and sped by, but fortunately that was not Hazel, who turned up 10 minutes later !

Palmerston North to Burtons Track

2011-02-27T18:10:00.001+13:00

Saturday 26th Feb 25.4 kms 5.5 hours

Crossing the Manawatu River I soon joined the Turitea Walkway that passes close to the Massey Campus, and then heads away from the city. The instructions always looked confusing, but I had no need for concern as the path was well marked with Te Araroa signs.

After a while this joined a minor road as it took me towards the hills, from where I was on an old track now used only for cycling and walking. More minor roads took me into the pleasant little Kahuterawa valley, which I then followed upstream to the end of the road, and the start of the next walking / cycling track - Back Track, which used to be a minor road, but now just wanders up through the bush onto a road providing access for logging trucks. From there not too far to my pickup point for the day.

Now into serious logging country, but being a Saturday we expected nothing, but they were putting more shingle on the narrow and winding Scotts Rd, so Hazel had to cope with dodging the shingle trucks. Fortunately on the way down our timing was great, and we avoided them.

Rangitikei to Manawatu

2011-02-25T19:56:00.001+13:00

Friday 25th Feb 44.6 km 8 hrs 40 mins

Leaving Bulls I crossed the Rangitikei River, waited patiently to cross a very busy SH3 then headed further inland. First searching out the summer route, but giving up after 40 minutes once I realised it was going to take more time than I was prepared to spend.

So then across country via quiet country roads to Feilding for an early lunch, and a walk past lots of sheep trucks - it must be sale day. From there on down alongside the Main Trunk Line to Bunnythorpe, and then to the eastern outskirts of Palmerston North.

Heading south, with another tricky crossing of a busy SH3, the trail took me to the banks of the Manawatu River. From there a pleasant walk beside the river to the day's pickup point - Fitzherbert Bridge

Fordell - Turakina - Santoft - Bulls

2011-02-24T19:35:00.001+13:00

Thursday 24th Feb 50.4 kms 9 hours

From Fordell a road walk of 5 kms took me to SH3, and then a trial by traffic through Whangaehu to Turakina, where I turned off on a quiet road for Turakina / Kotiata Beach.

My first west coast beach on Te Araroa since 90 Mile beach in Nov 2009 - 8.5 kms before heading through the sandhills and into the Santoft forest, for a shady walk through the tall pine trees.

This led straight onto another quiet country road, which eventually arrived at the Bulls township

Wanganui River to Fordell

2011-02-23T20:28:00.002+13:00

Wednesday 23rd Feb 49.5 km 9 hours

Dropped back up the River Road 3 kms south of Koriniti, then a lovely morning walking past the settlements of Atene and Parikino, then up the final hill for a welcome lunchstop looking back up the Whanganui River. Then on down towards Wanganui, but taking the north eastern bypass and heading off towards the small township of Fordell. Heading east now for a couple of days to correct the westward drift of Te Araroa at this point. But really happy with the Whanganui River flavour of the last 9 days - first upstream fronm Taumarunui through the Tongariro Forest, and then downstream from Whakahoro onwards

Whanganui River Road part 1

2011-02-23T20:21:00.003+13:00

Tuesday 22nd Feb 6 hrs 35.5 kms

A leisurely start to the day with breakfast at the Bridge To Nowhere Lodge, and then a jetboat ride down to Pipiriki. If I do kayak the river at some point, that will be as a part of a group trip, rather than as a solo Te Araroa journey. So walking started around 10.30, down the road from Pipiriki towards Wanganui. Past historic settlements of Jerusalem, Ramana, Mahariki and Koriniti, with news on the way of the devastating earthquake in Christchucrh, to put things in perspective. The River Road is a lovely walk on any day, but welcome to meet up with Hazel at the end of the afternoon for a ride back into Wanganui for the night

Bridge To Nowhere

2011-02-23T20:15:00.003+13:00

Monday 21st Feb 3hrs 12kms

An early start saw me arrive at the Bridge To Nowhere before 9.30 - all to myself, and then another 30 mins on to the Mangapurua Landing on the Whanganui River. So time to relax and watch the river go by waiting for Hazel to arrive on the morning's jetboat tour. A second walk to the bridge for a lunchtstop, then on the jetboat down to the Bridge To Nowhere Lodge at Ramanui for a relaxing afternoon and evening in comfort. Well entertained and catered for by hosts Joe and Mandy, with superb views up and down the river.

Whakahoro to Mangapurua Valley

2011-02-22T20:23:00.004+13:00

Sunday Feb 20th 26.2 Kms 7 hrs 45 mins

The old roadway from Whakahoro follows the Whanganui River a short distance then turns up the Kawhakauka Valley. This valey, and the next one, Managapurua, was alocated to returning soldiers from WWI as virgin bush, so farms had to be cleared and made into farmable units. All were eventually abandoned because of remoteness, diffculty of country, and access issues, but there is a major history of what is called "abandoned dreams" in the area. Along the way signposts provide the names of the people who tried to make a go of this difficult country. Now the old roads / walking tracks are also being converted into a national cycleway, so there is major work being done in the area. Lunch at the Managapurua trig, then the evening campsite was at the site of the Betjemans homestead, now only a brick chimney

National Park to Whakahoro

2011-02-22T20:17:00.002+13:00

Saturday 19th Feb 55.4 km 9hrs 40 mins

An early start saw me heading off down Fisher Rd / Track which is receiving a major makeover as part of a national cycleway project. As a result a threatened hard tramp has become a pleasant downhill trail into the remote Upper Retanuke valley. Road walking and walking then as expected for a long way to Whakahoro on the Whanganui River - a common stopping point for the kayak trip down the river. Old schoolhouse converted to DOC accommodation shared with 4 kayakers. Some amazing papa bluffs along the way.

Mangatepopo to National Park

2011-02-22T20:11:00.002+13:00

Feb 18th 31km 7.25 hrs

For a short distamce I was walking with today's batch of Tongariro Alpine Crossing people, but soon turned off on the track to Whakapapa Village. Undulating up and down through the pleasant alpine scrub with views of mountains near and far. Stopped for a long elevenses in and around the Chateau (not included in today's time), then off again on the Whakapapaiti Track through the welcome bush. Across a number of streams, and then turned off down to the Mangahuia campsite, followed by a road walk through to National Park, and the railway crossing where tomorrow's walk starts.

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

2011-02-17T20:38:00.001+13:00

Thursday Feb 17th 18.5 km 6.5 hrs

A clear morning, so no better day than today for a walk through this very distinctive volcanic area. From the Ketetahi Rd carpark at 760m it was a steady climb upwards, first through bush, then on open ridges, past the Ketetahi Hut and onto the Blue Lake at around 1760m. On past the startling green Emerald lakes then up to the top (1860m) of the dramatic Red Crater, with the whiff of sulphur at times.

Close up views of Mt Ngaruhoe to discourage any thoughts of a quick sprint up to the top, before heading down across the South Crater, then down on a good track winding through a major area of blackened volcanic rocks. A comforting sign showing all the areas the track goes through that have been impacted by volcanic activity over the last 100 years. So then down along the Mangatepopo Valley beside the little stream that is so different from the rushing forest end of that stream that I crossed the day before in the Tongariro Forest, what seems like a whole world away. Then on to the Managatepopo carpark.

By going North to South, Te Araroa is going against the standard way to do the Crossing – while a few hundred were doing South to North, I appeared to be the only person going the other way – so while it was busy from Blue Lake through to the start of the South Crater as I passed the main group of the day , for the rest of the day I met very few people. No reason to not do it North to South if you have the transport organised

Tongariro Forest to Ketetahi Rd

2011-02-16T17:41:00.002+13:00

Wednesday 16th Feb 24.3 km 7hrs

Off along the unmarked but clear enough Waione - Cokers track. But I followed it closely via GPS and my detailed maps, because the maps showed a lot of other tracks too - mostly quite obscure anyway. DOC uses the track for pest control / kiwi conservation and amazingly appear to take 4 wheeler bikes along it - parts of it are really rugged for anything other than walking.

Across the rushing Mangatepopo Stream just before it reaches the Whanganui River, then on through the forest. The last section was supposed to be in better condition, but that was where the real mud pools turned up. Then onto sealed roads, via SH47 and SH46 to the busy metropolis of the Ketetahi Rd carpark - for most people this is where their Tongariror Crossing ends.

After 5 days without Hazel, my faithful support crew, we both arrived at the carpark at the same time

Into the Tongariro Forest

2011-02-16T17:33:00.002+13:00

Tuesday 15th Feb 39.4 km 9 hrs

From the Taumarunui Holiday Park down SH4 to Owhango, then onto the second half (in reverse) of the 42nd Traverse - a popular mountain biking route that goes from one side of the Tongariro Forest to the other.The route meanders around, up and down, and through some (cycling) steep stream crossings. Eventually reached my target for the day - Waione Stream, with a good campsite nearby.

Taumarunui

2011-02-14T17:50:00.002+13:00

Monday Feb 14th 36km 5.75 hrs

Road walk from end of Mangakahu Valley, through two well populated horse paddocks, then via minor roads in lovely rolling hills into the top of Taumarunui. Stop for lunch, then on to the holiday park at Manunui. Feet a bit tired - Must go slower on roads when carrying a full pack

Hauhungaroas

2011-02-14T17:44:00.003+13:00

Sun 13th Feb 6.25 hrs 14 kms

Followed the Waihaha Stream a short way, disturbing a couple of pigs nearby in the forest in the process - neither of us really keen to meet each other. Then a good climb up onto the Hauhungaroa Range , reaching the Hauhungaroa Hut earlier than expected after 3 hrs. The hut booked notes 7 TA people this year plus a resident mouse. Stopped at the old Motere trig for lunch, then a slow descent (rough and muddy track) down into the Mangakahu Valley. Explored for a campsite - success, with ripe blackberries for good measure

Bog Inn Hut southwards

2011-02-14T17:35:00.003+13:00

Saturday 12th Feb 8.5 hrs 21.1 kms

Started off with some brilliant GPS and compass navigation around The Bog where the map said the track was. Then found the real track and deliberately followed it back to the hut. Just a reminder how maps and reality can differ.
Then set off again on the real track for the Weraroa high point, then on southwards to Waihaha Hut (7.25 hrs) Still mid afternoon, so continued on upstream to super camping spot near the junction with the Te Awaiti Stream. Hunters went by carrying a pig they had shot

Mt Pureora to Bog Inn Hut

2011-02-14T17:29:00.002+13:00

Friday 11th Feb 4.5 hrs 13km

From the Barryville / Link Rd corner headed up Link Rd, initially too far to Quarry Rd. Backtracked and then climbed up along Toitoi track to the summit, now in light drizzle with no view - keep that for another day. The descent was initially steep and recently washed out, but soon reverted to a comfortable undulating forest path. Arrived at the little hut just as it started to rain. This year 6 other Te Araroa walkers have been in the hut already.

Plans for 2011

2011-01-19T21:08:00.003+13:00

I am planning on resuming my Te Araroa travels on Friday February 11th, starting from the north end of the Pureora Forest where I left off last April. That day then was a clear sunny day with Mt Pureora just looking so enticing. Some serious walking ahead, but I am keen to get going.

I will be updating my blog, but because a number of sections involve several days away from computer / internet, this will be less frequent than in the past. The first update will not happen before about Monday, or possibly even Wednesday.

Mangaokewa to Pureora Forest Park

2010-04-12T21:18:00.004+12:00

29 km - 6 hours

We managed to locate yesterday's pick up point along the Mangaokewa Rd, so it was on from there, reaching the end of the Mangaokewa Stream, then over the saddle into the (upper) Waipa Valley - following the river via roads for a while (pic of falls), through a farm, then the theory was via some short stretches of forestry roads.

Milled within the last year or two, the forest road finished in the usual mess of an old skid site, with the continuation for a while having been destroyed completely by the logging. Not what I had expected, so the brambles that I had to work my way through at times had a good go at my unprotected legs. Tried boulder hopping along the Waipa River (river small, boulders large) as an alternative. Eventually met up with the much roughened forest road after one very slow rough km, and then made my way, including a ford of the Waipa River down to the main road. And then from there to the corner of Link Rd and Barryville Rd in the Pureora Forest Park.

From there a drive through the forest for around 10 km to the geographic centre of the North Island - so a fair way from Cape Reinga. I am having a break now while I prepare for the next sections of Te Araroa.

Mangaokewa River Track and onwards

2010-04-11T19:18:00.002+12:00

25.6 km - 7.2 hours

A chilly autumn start in the steep sided Mangaokewa Valley that soon warmed up with the sunny day. This track leaves from a camp site and heads upstream for 16 km - bush reserves, farm land, various forest types, all the while following a super stream. (pic) Given its cachment area though, it must have some wild times after a lot of rain.

The track follows the stream closely most of the way, although climbing over bluffs now and then, finding a few swampy patches, and not completely free of brambles and gorse - but generally that is under control. At one point a couple of goats sprang up and ran away very close to me. And then some huge red mushrooms in the last patch of forest before hitting the final farm paddocks.

From the road end I continued up to the corner with Mangaokewa Rd, and then kept on there for another 6 km steadily climbing up the hill still following the stream that is getting smaller, but still rushes along. More goats running away from the road.

Te Kuiti Walk

2010-04-11T19:13:00.002+12:00

Saturday April 10th - 6 km - 1.2 hours

This walk was done in two sections in between being in Te Kuiti on the day of the annual Great Muster - when a mob of somewhere between 1000 and 4000 sheep is run down the main street of the town (pic). This is the fun side of the national sheep shearing championships which have been happening here for the last few days.

Anyway, a very pleasant stream walk around the back streets of Te Kuiti - we normally just drive through the town with only a short stop. Some road walking for a short distance,
then back onto walking alongside the Mangaokewa stream which provided a taste of what I will be doing for tomorrow's walk. Brambles about, but avoided them for now. End of the Te Araroa
walk for today.

Then a quick road walk under the Waiteti railway viaduct and back to Te Kuiti just in time for the Great Muster.

Waitomo to Te Kuiti

2010-04-05T20:04:00.003+12:00

13 km - 5.25 hours

This track alternates between open farmland and patches of bush - and as promised a few significant up and down sections that were fairly steep. Reasonably slow going, but being careful I did not deviate from the marked route too much after the first valley. The second patch of bush provided a pleasant walk along a ridge, then wound via a farm track down to another valley.

Across that, and then a cute wee suspension bridge (pic) across the Mangapu River - a muddy stream with steep sides - then into the Pehitawa Forest on a very tidy track. Then out onto farmland for what was supposed to be an open walk to the top of Brook Park in Te Kuiti.

But half way between Oparure Rd and Gadsby Rd the markers vanished (meaning I searched up and down the next fenceline for them, but did not find them or the expected stile. Continued on in the right direction, but the other side of Gadsby Rd was the same, so headed down there to the main road, right on the outskirts of the town anyway. Looking forward to having a walk up and down Brook Park next time I am back.

Mahoe Forest to Waitomo

2010-04-05T19:28:00.003+12:00

Sunday 4th April - 25 km (and some) - 10.5 hours

An early start took me through farmland, then on an old track through the forest from Honikiwi Rd to Mahoe Rd. Shoulder high ferns to brush past - fine except for where a farm bike had been through and coated them with (now) dried mud. Farm land, a minor road, and then into forest again at the Oamaru Reserve.

This is a new track (because of access issues for the first half of the old one), well marked, but fairly slow going as it was a bit uneven, but made steady progress up and down through the forest, then down and up a long fenceline into a valley - then up and down again, and up some more - and the sun had come out too, so quite hot. On the next up section the track initially pointed through what looked like thick scrub, but the alternative I tried was worse, so after a rough hill climb, I rejoined the real track.

This then dived off into trees, with pleasant walking, and at some point changing from the new track into the original track which looked to be on an old forest road. At this point the markers became a lot less frequent, leading to a wrong turning, before back tracking and being more vigilant the second time. This wound its way down through the forest to follow a stream. My track map had a side turning marked part way along, so followed one when I found it, but that was wrong - so back tracked again.

And then there was a wide shallow river to cross (shallow thanks to dry weather - you don't go this way after heavy rain) - my feet really appreciating cooling down at this point. The real track actually follows the forest road up and down all the way down to near Waitomo - pleasant enough, but at this point I was quite tired.

The last section was to take a short track down the hill to join the Waitomo Walkway, but as warned by the neighbour, the brambles were out in force, and although my walking pole could deal to some of them, it was time to give up on them and head down the road to Waitomo village.

My hardest and longest day of Te Araroa so far - quite long sections of rougher track, and my track maps having some significant variations from where the new and original track actually went - errors of navigation really cost time and energy. Great country though - forest, hills, views, streams - I love it (pic).

Mt Pirongia Traverse, and on to Honikiwi Road

2010-04-05T19:19:00.003+12:00

Saturday 3rd April - 33 km - 8.8 hours

Not yet used to the reduced daylight hours, we had a mostly dark drive to the north end of the Mt Pirongia track. Daylight arrived soon after, as I headed off alongside a stream, then into the bush for a steady climb for a while on a good track, getting rougher as I neared the top. Lovely views from the first 950m peak, then on to Mt Pirongia (959m) and its high viewing platform for an early lunch with views in all directions - some high cloud only.

Then on to check out the Pahautea Hut, before turning off down the revised Hihikiwi track. To the Hihikiwi lookout it is on the most amazing boardwalk, which at times is quite high above the forest floor - a bit disconcerting at first - not a place to be distracted and put a foot wrong ! This has been installed recently, and dedicated to Noel Sandford who has played a huge part in getting Te Araroa to where it is today.

After the lookout the track became more standard, working its way onto a ridge heading in the right direction, then following that up and down until finally reaching the southern edge of the Pirongia Forest Park. Finally found some of the famous Pirongia mud on the way - and it hasn't been raining much lately either.

Arrived at the track exit in very good time (5.5 hours), so then went on to the next section of Te Araroa - the Pirongia South Walk - going down mostly very minor country roads with some good views, including a walk on a road through the Te Rauamoa Reserve to finish the day.

West of Hamilton to foot of Mt Pirongia

2010-04-05T19:14:00.003+12:00

Friday 2nd April - 27.5 km - 5.75 hours

Met up with the chooks again at Taitua Arboretum, on a cooler morning, heading westward via quiet country roads with frequent views in all directions.

These took me to the Raglan road, through Whatawhata, across the Waipa River, then picked up the Waipa River Walk. Some pleasant walking alongside the river, and a new found skill for when brambles grab my legs - Freeze ! Not many of those, but then two paddocks of boisterous young cattle - the sort that like to run up behind you when you are not looking and have to be shooed away before they bowl you over.

And so around the tiver some more, and some more quiet country roads to the start of the Kapamahunga Walkway - a walk along farm tracks through hilly limestone country with great views and cattle that were just happy to run away. Just loving the Waikato hills (pic).

A patch of pleasant bush, then some more quiet country roads to the start of tomorrow's Mt Pirongia jaunt.

Ngaruwahia to west of Hamilton

2010-03-21T16:37:00.003+13:00

29.2 km - 5.25 hours

The next section of Te Araroa involves some walking on a busy stretch of SH1, waiting for a walkway to be built along the south bank of the Waikato River. My scout had been sent out earlier to check out the new walkway, but nothing much happening, so my alternative route was to cross to the north bank and follow a more minor River Rd all the way to Hamilton - at times still able to hear the traffic on SH1.

I crossed to the south bank again on a pedestrian bridge, so picking up with the Te Araroa route again very soon after it actually hits the walkway alongside the river. This delightful walk and cycle way took me all the way into the centre of Hamilton - what a real treat that is for the city to have such a pleasant traffic free walk in the middle of the city (pic).

From there a scoot across to Lake Rotoroa, and then via a few roads to Tills Lookout on the west of the town. And there I was with views all around and the path leading to ... Mt Pirongia, where Te Araroa will take me soon. From the lookout the path took me down into the Taitua Arboretum, for a gentle walk amongst the trees to the carpark and my pickup for the day.

Back there hopefully at Easter.

Huntly to Ngaruwahia

2010-03-19T17:34:00.003+13:00

19.2 km - 5 hrs 20 minutes

From the Huntly power station, there is a road walk through the western side of the town, and then staying on that side of the river, on south to the start of the Hakarimata Walkway.

That starts off as a good class walking track - if you don't mind the hundreds of well made steps - up to lookout points back up north (picture - Waikato River and Huntly town). As promised, after that it becomes a standard tramping track that goes up and down the bush clad ridge that looks down on the Waikato River and SH1 on its way from Ngaruwahia to Taupiri - with even the sound of a train from time to time.

And then a steep downhill track, which near the bottom becomes a well made walking track past the Mangarata reservoir and waterfall, taking me all the way into Ngaruwahia.

A shorter time than expected, but at the moment with everything so dry, it is fast walking / tramping, with no mud or slippery tracks to slow me down.

Mercer to Huntly

2010-03-18T19:42:00.002+13:00

42 km - 8.5 hours

From Mercer there is a short up and down track that runs parallel to the main road, providing a great view of the Waikato River and taking me to the Whangamarino Redoubt historical site.

From there it was a walk alongside SH1, but fortunately a wide verge, so no big deal. Escaped into a diversion via Meremere township, then back to the main road, before heading off for the river after a short while. Then on stop banks and other riverside paths for quite a few kms heading south. After the Pumphouse site a bit of a toss up between the quiet road and the parallel stop bank, all the way through to the bridge at Rangiriri.

Across the river there, and then on stop banks almost all the way to the Huntly Power Station - a bit like walking on a rail trail, as for most of the way the stop banks are some distance from the river, and wind their flat way through (very dry) paddocks, behind houses and away from the road.

Hunua Ranges South and on to Mercer

2010-01-30T20:08:00.003+13:00

Saturday 30th January - 31 kms, 8.25 hours

An early start because of forecast rain saw me heading off from Moumoukai into the Mangatawhiri valley on a crisp sunny morning. As it happened the rain did not arrive, and my 4 crossings of the Mangatawhiri river were not much more than ankle deep. A steady climb up to the ridge on leaving the valley included a crawl through a large tree fall, but good to see track work is in progress with the construction of new steps on the steeper sections.

The ridge tramping track that followed was well marked and as promised had a very steep downhill section at the end - could be a great slide after rain ! The track out leads past what used to be the smart Hotel Du Vin - now part of Dilworth College. Road walk down to the junction with what is now the Old SH2 - great now that it has only 1 vehicle every 5 minutes, rather than the continuous stream before the new expressway opened. Then a pleasant road to follow over to Mercer on the Waikato River to prove that I am now into Te Araroa's Waikato section.

The picture is the Mangatawhiri river after my descent - the dry summer view

Hunua Ranges Track - North

2010-01-24T16:19:00.003+13:00

Sunday 24th January - 15.8 km - 5.3 hours

Started the day expecting rain and long sections of slow muddy tracks, but in the event there was no rain, and only around 2 hours of slower track - the rest were of a superb grade. From Cosseys Dam Road down across the stream, then up to check out the Hunua Falls, before heading up and up the Massey Track onto the bush clad hill tops. A splendid grove of kauri trees and then on along a long ridge above the Wairoa reservoir - with the occasional glimpse of it.

Then down onto and across the Wairoa Dam, with my best view so far of the reservoir, and then up and up again to a fine lookout where this picture was taken from. Soon reaching a high point it was all downhill from there on shingle roads to Moumoukai, near the base of the Upper Mangatawhiri Dam

Totara Park to the Hunuas

2010-01-24T16:09:00.004+13:00

Saturday 23rd January - 37.2 km - 7.75 hours

Heading up through Totara Park I am now on the eastern edge of Auckland. On top of a ridge, Te Araroa then follows Redoubt Rd - for the moment anyway - off towards Whitford, and then turning towards Clevedon. But a welcome turn away from roads takes me onto Kimptons Track and the hill reserve behind Clevedon. With lookouts back to where I have come from, out to the Hauraki Gulf, and towards the Hunua Ranges.

Road walking accompanied by cyclists on a 100km race, and then into the Hunuas on the Wairoa River Track - mostly following this rushing wee river for 5 km before taking me out onto Cosseys Dam Road, near the Hunua Falls.

Auckland to Totara Park

2010-01-17T15:57:00.001+13:00

I was planning to be in Northland again by now to continue my Te Araroa travels from where I left off in November, but not there yet. So I have become a weekend Te Araroa walker that at least lets me walk Te Araroa from home in Auckland south via day walks. Quite a few of those within a short drive from home, so today was the first of those

Sunday 17th January 2010 - 42 km - 8 hours

From home in Epsom through the gem of Cornwall Park, then down to the Manukau Harbour following it around through Ambury Farm Park, and along the Coastal Walk to the Otuataua Stonefields - the home of one of the cutest wee volcanic cones in the Auckland area. Then a road hop around past the airport and off towards Manukau City, but with a deviation through the Puhinui Reserve - and a not so pleasant wade through the Puhinui Stream.

Then onto Manukau City, finding the Puhinui Stream from time to time, and using it to get under the southern motorway and onto its most enjoyable forest section - the Puhinui Stream Track. Which delivered me to Totara Park and my pickup for the day

Picture - the path goes ever on - here on the edge of the Otuataua Stonefields