Saturday, December 17, 2011

TA Opening and Plans for summer 2011 - 2012

It was great to be at the official opening of Te Araroa with Hazel on December 3rd and from it get a better appreciation of the major undertaking that has brought TA to this point. The Island Bay setting was superb and the weather was so kind. Afterwards we followed TA back into the city, as ever impressed by how strenuous Wellington city walks can be !

Soon after Christmas I will be on the trail again, first from St Arnaud south to the St James Walkway and then a big loop back to St Arnaud with a party from the Auckland Tramping Club. Then reversing my normal direction, two of us will be going south to north up the Richmond Ranges, so that I can then complete the TA route up to Pelorus Bridge, where I arrived from the north back in April. All going well I will then travel back down to the top of the St James Walkway and follow that until where my first trip left off, and then continue, ever on.

Monday, April 25, 2011

Queen Charlotte Track to Pelorus Bridge

Sunday 24th April 38.5 km 8 hours, including a good break in The Mussel Pot, Havelock, for lunch

Rained all night, and pleased that my tent coped remarkably well. Packed up in the rain, and then off on the last 30 minutes of the Queen Charlotte Track to Anakiwa. Water everywhere, and the rain continuing on through the day only too regularly. So now at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound, with a combination of walking tracks and roads to take me away west from the sound, and over to the head of an arm of Pelorus Sound.

As promised the side track up Mahakipawa Hill was steep, but fortunately not the bare clay surface going up as per the TA notes - if it had been, that would have meant a road diversion. But steep up, and then steep and more slippery down with Havelock being so close at the bottom, so a lot of care needed to stay on my feet - success !

Patchy views of the surrounding hills, and the Sounds looking quite brown from the runoff from all the rivers and creeks that were now in flood. After lunch along SH6 towards Canvastown, with time to watch the flooded rivers and creeks, and the many waterfalls on the side of the road. With the creeks flooded, at Daltons Bridge, rather than taking the new track from there to Pelorus Bridge (which has side creeks to cross) I stayed on the main road. As soon as I reached the Pelorus Bridge DOC sign a sandfly spotted me.

A change into dry clothes (yay!), a pie at the cafe, and time now to leave Te Araroa until next summer. Richmond Ranges ahead, which are serious tramping country - I will have to check out my options before continuing on.

Queen Charlotte Track Day 2

Saturday 23rd April 7.5 hrs 32.5 km

Bay Of Many Coves campsite to Umungata (Davies) Bay campsite. Now along the ridge between Queen Charlotte and Kerepuru Sounds, with views sometimes to one side, and sometimes to the other. Fortunately not following the exact contours of the ridge, so not a steep up and down track all the time - just some of the time when coming to the lower saddles between the two Sounds.

By late morning the occasional light drizzle had become occasional, and then more persistent rain. But not cold or windy, so relatively pleasant if you kept moving. Track becoming a bit more slippery in places, but staying on my feet all of today. Pitched tent in the rain, and it now really was quite continuous. Just about at the end of the track, but stopped here because this is the last DOC campsite.

South Island - Queen Charlotte Track

Easter Friday 22nd April 36 km 7 hours

From Ship Cove to Bay of Many Coves campsite. A fine day with some cloud, but wet weather on the way, so making the most of it today.

Time for a quick look at the Cook memorial, then off up the hill away from Ship Cove. In and out of little valleys, past Resolution Bay then up to a saddle looking down into Endeavour Inlet. Where I caught up with the large group of mountain bikers who had passed me earlier. But then they were gone off down the hill.

A close encounter with the track, courtesy of a tree root, left a bit o damage, but nothing to hold me up too long. Down along the shore of Endeavour Inlet, on past the houses at the end, and then a lunch stop looking back to where I had been an hour or so earlier. And so the track winds on, into and out of Big Bay, and then the direct route up to Kerepuru Saddle (bypassing Camp Bay) Now views of Sounds on both sides of the track, notably from the 2 Eastwell lookouts - the second especially a superb high point up a steep side track.

And so on to the Bay of Many Coves campsite on the ridge looking down into Queen Charlotte Sound. A weka tried to souvenir one of my walking socks, but had the sense to understand that it was fairly undesirable, leaving it a short way off in the undergrowth.

Monday, March 28, 2011

North Island Last Day

Sunday 27th March 20.5 kms 6 hrs

A wandering track took me up into the cloud again on my way to Mt Kaukau and then along the Skyline Walkway in what Wellingtonians would call a light breeze - others would just say it was quite windy. Then down into the western suburbs of Ngaio and Wadestown through some charming parks and streets to the Botanic Gardens. But learning quickly that walking around Wellington involves very few level stretches.

The Northern Walkway route took me to the Botanic Gardens and the top of the Cable Car, and the City to Sea Walkway then took me without too many hitches down to the southern coast at Island Bay - more hills, more parks, and then just when it should give up and go down to the sea, it zigzagged up a final hill and along a ridge line just at the same time that it really did rain for a while.

But there it was - the south coast of the North Island and so I was soon down onto a pleasant walk around The Esplanade to the official end of Te Araroa North Island in the main settlement at Island Bay. Great sea and sky views, no southerly wind blasting me, so what a great way to finish my North Island travels. In the picture is Taputeranga Island just off the coast at Island Bay.

Queen Elizabeth Park to the Wellington hills

Saturday 26th March 47.8 kms 8.75 hrs

Off on a drizzly morning down the coastal side of Queen Elizabeth Park as the good metalled track wandered up and down and around the sandhills. Leaving the park the trail followed the coastal road through Paekakariki to take me onto the section of SH1 that is almost in the sea. Still drizzly at times, until after I had reached Pukerua Bay and climbed up and over the hill there.

Then the trail took me up further onto a high point with some great views, especially as I was coming down into Plimmerton - looking down along Porirua Harbour in a splendid mixed sunny and cloudy landscape. So down to the sea again and around through Mana and Paremata to a lunch stop at a pleasant Aotea Lagoon - so close to a busy road, but hidden away so that you would not know it is there.

Then on through Porirua itself and up into the hills behind - hundreds of steps took me up through and out of the bush, leading to Colonial Knob. I must return there when there is no cloud about, since then the views would be superb. So down through a steep and slippery section of pine trees to Ohariu Valley - along the road to the end of Rifle Range Rd ready for tomorrow's final north island section. Horse lovers' heaven around here.

Otaki Forks to Queen Elizabeth Park

Friday 25th March 53 km 9.25 hrs

Back to Otaki Forks by the swingbridge to walk out along the road, past the historic stone fences, and through the shady Totara Reserve overhanging the road. Around and into the hills again on Mangaone North Rd, and then onto the Mangaone Walkway. Delayed for a while because of ripe blackberries, then up and over a low saddle, into an open grassy area, and then back into some pleasant bush, all on easy tracks.

More roads down to Waikanae, then onto the walkway following the meandering Waikanae Stream almost all the way to the coast. Then onto the beach at Paraparaumu, with Kapiti Island looming close by, and views of the South Island in the distance. So down the coast, sometimes on the beach, sometimes on the coastal road until I arrived at the north end of Queen Elizabeth Park. A calm sea, minimal wind, and very pleasant walking on what is often a very windswept coastline.

Friday, March 4, 2011

Tararua Tops Day 4

Friday 4th March 10kms 4.5 hours

Gusty winds even in the Otaki valley, so pleased to be walking out today. A walk through at times very dark bush alogside the Otaki River, before walking up alongside a side stream into an area called the Plateau. The expected light rain started at that point, so nothing to cause me to dawdle along the way.

Then down another small stream, crossing it many times, and at times in the stream bed itself. Then eventually onto a track using an old logging tramway, so from there the going was mostly easier, barring one more steep climb to go over the top of a huge slip. So arrived at the Otaki Forks carpark just before midday.

I am thrilled that in the last few days I had now completed the most difficult section of Te Araroa North Island, and needing to be back in Auckland this weekend, it is time to halt my Te Araroa wanderings for the moment, and find some time for the remaining few days down to Wellington soon.

Tararua Tops Day 3

Thursday 3rd March 21 kms 10 hrs 45 mins Ascent 2130m Descent 2760m

An early start from Te Matawai hut had me walking through and then above the early morning cloud to the junction near Pukematawai and from there it was a regular up and down along the Main Ridge track, that runs on a ridge along the middle of the Tararuas. So past Butcher Knob, Dracophyllum Knob / Hut (3.5 hrs), Puketoro, Kelleher, and then up to Nicholls (3 hrs). From there seriously on open ridgeline to the top of Mt Crawford.

From there views in all directions - Ruapehu, Mt Taranaki, the Wairarapa, Kapiti Island, and peaks in the northern South Island. And of course closer to hand the dramatic peaks and deep valleys of the Tararuas in all directions. I have never been here before, so really thrilled to be here on a good day. Most of the time you are walking along the top of a fairly narrow ridge, and very strong winds are frequent, so it is just not possible if the weather is bad.

Then down, down, down (arrggh!) to the Otaki River and the warm Waitewaewae hut. Ideally this day's section should be done in 1.5 days, but time and weather forecasts meant that it was prudent to have one long day and get off the tops. In the event, given Froday's weather, that was a correct decision - I could easily have been stuck up in another hut for another couple of nights waiting for the wind to go down. Anyway - a really trmemendous, if long, day.

Tararua Tops Day 2

Wednesday 2nd March 0kms 0hrs

As per all the weather forecasts, today had two options - Plan A - stay put and wait for tomorrow, or Plan B - get a half day break in the bad weather and move on to the next hut. In the event at 5.45, and at 7.30 I went back to my sleeping bag, and the weather did not improve until the evening. Tomorrow will be a longer day as a result

Tararua Tops Day 1

Tuesday 1st March 16kms 6 hrs 45 mins

From Poads Rd near Levin to Te Matawai Hut. As the route directions say - ascent 1500m, descnt800m. Starting with a short walk across farmland, and then into the Tararua bush. A steady climb up and out of the bush to Waiopehu Hut (3.5 hrs). That has a great view out to the west, but not today as I was now in drippy cloud.

From there up some more to some peaks over 1000m, followed by a significant descent to Butchers Saddle before the final climb to Te Matawai Hut. Not many Te Araroa walkers in the hut books ... this section can only be done if you are really keen and the weather is in your favour.

Monday, February 28, 2011

Mangahao - Makahika Track

Monday Feb 28th 21.5 kms 6 hours

Another drive up the winding Mangahao Rd from Shannon to the other side of the hill near the Tokomaru No 3 Reservoir. Signs advising of logging trucks fortunately did not result in any appearing.

So, off around to the other side of the reservoir, and then onto the track itself - a well formed track with easy gradients, that wound its way up through what was initially very dark bush (a cloudy morning). Such a good track in fact that in less than 2 hours from the track sign I reached the Horowhenua Lookout - on paper supposed to be a 3-4 hr walk.

Anyway, views out across the district with Shannon, Foxton, Foxton Beach, and the Manawatu River able to be identified via binoculars. Soon after there was a different view along the length of the Makahika Valley, which is where the track was to take me - down, down and more down, before arriving alongside the little Makahika Stream, which the track them crossed and recrossed many times, following the path of an old bush tramway for a long way. Following that, through open scrub and farmland, out onto the end of Gladstone Rd.

A few kms walk down the road, then up to the end of Poads Rd, from where the Tararua Tops section of Te Araroa starts. This is a short drive from Levin.

Sunday, February 27, 2011

Burtons Track

Sunday 21st Feb 16.6 kms 5.5 hours

This track is closed (actually road access is difficult, not so much the track) during the week, so being Sunday (with the shingle trucks not working either) we thought we were safe - until we reached the the start of the climb up Scotts Rd to find the road blocked off waiting for a logging truck to come down - and 3 empty ones pulled up behind us soon after. They were working an unscheduled day because of an urgent need for more logs down in Lyttelton, the centre of the recent Christchurch earthquake. But problem solved with cadging a ride up the road with one of the trucks, so Hazel did not have to dodge the trucks on what is only a one way road where logging trucks are concerned.

So to the start of the day's walk - on closer inspection of the map and GPS a bit short of the expected spot, but like all tracks through forestry areas, the reality and the maps / instructions can soon differ. Anyway, off up along forestry roads, soon in a different direction from the current logging operations up a minor old forestry road to a high point with a brief view out across the plains towards the sea. Then onto a real tramping track at last (the official start of Burtons Track) that went downwards towards the Tokomaru Stream. Time for wet feet from stream crossings for the first time since being in the Tongariro Forest a couple of weeks ago. Then I followed the tramping track and old vehicle tracks upstream, past the old Burtons whare site, until arriving at the pickup point for the day. Satellite phone calls to confirm the pickup time, and then time to relax waiting for Hazel in our white van. So I was a bit dismayed when a white van arrived at the right time and sped by, but fortunately that was not Hazel, who turned up 10 minutes later !

Palmerston North to Burtons Track

Saturday 26th Feb 25.4 kms 5.5 hours

Crossing the Manawatu River I soon joined the Turitea Walkway that passes close to the Massey Campus, and then heads away from the city. The instructions always looked confusing, but I had no need for concern as the path was well marked with Te Araroa signs.

After a while this joined a minor road as it took me towards the hills, from where I was on an old track now used only for cycling and walking. More minor roads took me into the pleasant little Kahuterawa valley, which I then followed upstream to the end of the road, and the start of the next walking / cycling track - Back Track, which used to be a minor road, but now just wanders up through the bush onto a road providing access for logging trucks. From there not too far to my pickup point for the day.

Now into serious logging country, but being a Saturday we expected nothing, but they were putting more shingle on the narrow and winding Scotts Rd, so Hazel had to cope with dodging the shingle trucks. Fortunately on the way down our timing was great, and we avoided them.

Friday, February 25, 2011

Rangitikei to Manawatu

Friday 25th Feb 44.6 km 8 hrs 40 mins

Leaving Bulls I crossed the Rangitikei River, waited patiently to cross a very busy SH3 then headed further inland. First searching out the summer route, but giving up after 40 minutes once I realised it was going to take more time than I was prepared to spend.

So then across country via quiet country roads to Feilding for an early lunch, and a walk past lots of sheep trucks - it must be sale day. From there on down alongside the Main Trunk Line to Bunnythorpe, and then to the eastern outskirts of Palmerston North.

Heading south, with another tricky crossing of a busy SH3, the trail took me to the banks of the Manawatu River. From there a pleasant walk beside the river to the day's pickup point - Fitzherbert Bridge

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Fordell - Turakina - Santoft - Bulls

Thursday 24th Feb 50.4 kms 9 hours

From Fordell a road walk of 5 kms took me to SH3, and then a trial by traffic through Whangaehu to Turakina, where I turned off on a quiet road for Turakina / Kotiata Beach.

My first west coast beach on Te Araroa since 90 Mile beach in Nov 2009 - 8.5 kms before heading through the sandhills and into the Santoft forest, for a shady walk through the tall pine trees.

This led straight onto another quiet country road, which eventually arrived at the Bulls township

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Wanganui River to Fordell

Wednesday 23rd Feb 49.5 km 9 hours

Dropped back up the River Road 3 kms south of Koriniti, then a lovely morning walking past the settlements of Atene and Parikino, then up the final hill for a welcome lunchstop looking back up the Whanganui River. Then on down towards Wanganui, but taking the north eastern bypass and heading off towards the small township of Fordell. Heading east now for a couple of days to correct the westward drift of Te Araroa at this point. But really happy with the Whanganui River flavour of the last 9 days - first upstream fronm Taumarunui through the Tongariro Forest, and then downstream from Whakahoro onwards

Whanganui River Road part 1

Tuesday 22nd Feb 6 hrs 35.5 kms

A leisurely start to the day with breakfast at the Bridge To Nowhere Lodge, and then a jetboat ride down to Pipiriki. If I do kayak the river at some point, that will be as a part of a group trip, rather than as a solo Te Araroa journey. So walking started around 10.30, down the road from Pipiriki towards Wanganui. Past historic settlements of Jerusalem, Ramana, Mahariki and Koriniti, with news on the way of the devastating earthquake in Christchucrh, to put things in perspective. The River Road is a lovely walk on any day, but welcome to meet up with Hazel at the end of the afternoon for a ride back into Wanganui for the night

Bridge To Nowhere

Monday 21st Feb 3hrs 12kms

An early start saw me arrive at the Bridge To Nowhere before 9.30 - all to myself, and then another 30 mins on to the Mangapurua Landing on the Whanganui River. So time to relax and watch the river go by waiting for Hazel to arrive on the morning's jetboat tour. A second walk to the bridge for a lunchtstop, then on the jetboat down to the Bridge To Nowhere Lodge at Ramanui for a relaxing afternoon and evening in comfort. Well entertained and catered for by hosts Joe and Mandy, with superb views up and down the river.

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Whakahoro to Mangapurua Valley

Sunday Feb 20th 26.2 Kms 7 hrs 45 mins

The old roadway from Whakahoro follows the Whanganui River a short distance then turns up the Kawhakauka Valley. This valey, and the next one, Managapurua, was alocated to returning soldiers from WWI as virgin bush, so farms had to be cleared and made into farmable units. All were eventually abandoned because of remoteness, diffculty of country, and access issues, but there is a major history of what is called "abandoned dreams" in the area. Along the way signposts provide the names of the people who tried to make a go of this difficult country. Now the old roads / walking tracks are also being converted into a national cycleway, so there is major work being done in the area. Lunch at the Managapurua trig, then the evening campsite was at the site of the Betjemans homestead, now only a brick chimney

National Park to Whakahoro

Saturday 19th Feb 55.4 km 9hrs 40 mins

An early start saw me heading off down Fisher Rd / Track which is receiving a major makeover as part of a national cycleway project. As a result a threatened hard tramp has become a pleasant downhill trail into the remote Upper Retanuke valley. Road walking and walking then as expected for a long way to Whakahoro on the Whanganui River - a common stopping point for the kayak trip down the river. Old schoolhouse converted to DOC accommodation shared with 4 kayakers. Some amazing papa bluffs along the way.

Mangatepopo to National Park

Feb 18th 31km 7.25 hrs

For a short distamce I was walking with today's batch of Tongariro Alpine Crossing people, but soon turned off on the track to Whakapapa Village. Undulating up and down through the pleasant alpine scrub with views of mountains near and far. Stopped for a long elevenses in and around the Chateau (not included in today's time), then off again on the Whakapapaiti Track through the welcome bush. Across a number of streams, and then turned off down to the Mangahuia campsite, followed by a road walk through to National Park, and the railway crossing where tomorrow's walk starts.

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Thursday Feb 17th 18.5 km 6.5 hrs

A clear morning, so no better day than today for a walk through this very distinctive volcanic area. From the Ketetahi Rd carpark at 760m it was a steady climb upwards, first through bush, then on open ridges, past the Ketetahi Hut and onto the Blue Lake at around 1760m. On past the startling green Emerald lakes then up to the top (1860m) of the dramatic Red Crater, with the whiff of sulphur at times.

Close up views of Mt Ngaruhoe to discourage any thoughts of a quick sprint up to the top, before heading down across the South Crater, then down on a good track winding through a major area of blackened volcanic rocks. A comforting sign showing all the areas the track goes through that have been impacted by volcanic activity over the last 100 years. So then down along the Mangatepopo Valley beside the little stream that is so different from the rushing forest end of that stream that I crossed the day before in the Tongariro Forest, what seems like a whole world away. Then on to the Managatepopo carpark.

By going North to South, Te Araroa is going against the standard way to do the Crossing – while a few hundred were doing South to North, I appeared to be the only person going the other way – so while it was busy from Blue Lake through to the start of the South Crater as I passed the main group of the day , for the rest of the day I met very few people. No reason to not do it North to South if you have the transport organised

Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Tongariro Forest to Ketetahi Rd

Wednesday 16th Feb 24.3 km 7hrs

Off along the unmarked but clear enough Waione - Cokers track. But I followed it closely via GPS and my detailed maps, because the maps showed a lot of other tracks too - mostly quite obscure anyway. DOC uses the track for pest control / kiwi conservation and amazingly appear to take 4 wheeler bikes along it - parts of it are really rugged for anything other than walking.

Across the rushing Mangatepopo Stream just before it reaches the Whanganui River, then on through the forest. The last section was supposed to be in better condition, but that was where the real mud pools turned up. Then onto sealed roads, via SH47 and SH46 to the busy metropolis of the Ketetahi Rd carpark - for most people this is where their Tongariror Crossing ends.

After 5 days without Hazel, my faithful support crew, we both arrived at the carpark at the same time

Into the Tongariro Forest

Tuesday 15th Feb 39.4 km 9 hrs

From the Taumarunui Holiday Park down SH4 to Owhango, then onto the second half (in reverse) of the 42nd Traverse - a popular mountain biking route that goes from one side of the Tongariro Forest to the other.The route meanders around, up and down, and through some (cycling) steep stream crossings. Eventually reached my target for the day - Waione Stream, with a good campsite nearby.

Monday, February 14, 2011

Taumarunui

Monday Feb 14th 36km 5.75 hrs

Road walk from end of Mangakahu Valley, through two well populated horse paddocks, then via minor roads in lovely rolling hills into the top of Taumarunui. Stop for lunch, then on to the holiday park at Manunui. Feet a bit tired - Must go slower on roads when carrying a full pack

Hauhungaroas

Sun 13th Feb 6.25 hrs 14 kms

Followed the Waihaha Stream a short way, disturbing a couple of pigs nearby in the forest in the process - neither of us really keen to meet each other. Then a good climb up onto the Hauhungaroa Range , reaching the Hauhungaroa Hut earlier than expected after 3 hrs. The hut booked notes 7 TA people this year plus a resident mouse. Stopped at the old Motere trig for lunch, then a slow descent (rough and muddy track) down into the Mangakahu Valley. Explored for a campsite - success, with ripe blackberries for good measure

Bog Inn Hut southwards

Saturday 12th Feb 8.5 hrs 21.1 kms

Started off with some brilliant GPS and compass navigation around The Bog where the map said the track was. Then found the real track and deliberately followed it back to the hut. Just a reminder how maps and reality can differ.
Then set off again on the real track for the Weraroa high point, then on southwards to Waihaha Hut (7.25 hrs) Still mid afternoon, so continued on upstream to super camping spot near the junction with the Te Awaiti Stream. Hunters went by carrying a pig they had shot

Mt Pureora to Bog Inn Hut

Friday 11th Feb 4.5 hrs 13km

From the Barryville / Link Rd corner headed up Link Rd, initially too far to Quarry Rd. Backtracked and then climbed up along Toitoi track to the summit, now in light drizzle with no view - keep that for another day. The descent was initially steep and recently washed out, but soon reverted to a comfortable undulating forest path. Arrived at the little hut just as it started to rain. This year 6 other Te Araroa walkers have been in the hut already.

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Plans for 2011

I am planning on resuming my Te Araroa travels on Friday February 11th, starting from the north end of the Pureora Forest where I left off last April. That day then was a clear sunny day with Mt Pureora just looking so enticing. Some serious walking ahead, but I am keen to get going.

I will be updating my blog, but because a number of sections involve several days away from computer / internet, this will be less frequent than in the past. The first update will not happen before about Monday, or possibly even Wednesday.